Discussion:
Is this a valid / uptodate design for the barometer?
(too old to reply)
Edelmann
2002-10-04 19:37:59 UTC
Permalink
http://www.davidbray.org/onewire/barometer.html

has detailed info on the bray barometer. Is this link still valid from a
contemporary suggested barometer standpoint, or has it been replaced by
better, more stable designs. If the latter is the case, is there a pointer
to the currently favored design....?

thanks!

John Edelmann
Robin
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Slack moment on TV and HT set on charge
Thaught I'd start the barometer adjustments before venturing out to Maplin
in the AM to get a pair of variable resistors for the final calibration
tool...
However at some point the VR2 5k trimmer stopped working...
Does anyone have time to just have a quick look at Maplins site
http://www.maplin.co.uk/ and tell me if UH24B would make a suitable
replacement ?

Heres there techno gumph ( often not 100% correct )

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> SNIP >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
A 22-turn cermet preset with slipping clutch (25 mechanical turns) and an
audible click at each end of travel to define the ends. This professional
quality trimmer is designed for applications where reliability and small
size are major considerations. Infinite electrical resolution. Power
rating 0.5W at 70°C. Tolerance ±10%. Max working voltage 300V. Temperature
coefficient: ±100ppm/°C max.
Values available:
1k, 5k, 10k, 50k, 100k, 1M.
The dustproof and immersion-proof case measures 9.6 x 4.8 x 10mm high.
Drive head stands a further 1.5mm high. Lead length 6.2mm. Pins are
in-line on 2.54mm (0.1in.) centres.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Any help offered would be appreciated
I'm kicking myself for soldering them in first - but I guess I would have
been asking the same question on the list as I would have probably lost
them between building them and the setting up !

Regards
Rob
r***@knology.net
2002-10-04 23:28:45 UTC
Permalink
The current Barometer has the trimmer pins in a triangle pattern....not in-
line. I think the current part number is on simon's site. It may not have
quit working--when I calibrated mine it acted real weird as I got it closer.

BTW, I used simon's trick--just soldered them in and adjusted from there--
it works. The cal tool can use most any value for the pots--just be sure
to use a good DVM to set them--(mine is cheap junk). I had to put in a
0.165" offset to track local BP, but it does track nicely. Expect to have
to very slowly fiddle the calibration in, it's very touchy. I went back and
forth about ten times before it was swinging right.

A good long burn-in once the cal is close makes it easier. 24 hours is not
unreasonable once rough calibration is dialed in.

--Rich (nice to know I sitll have the touch with alignment tools!)

On Fri, 4 Oct 2002 22:01:33 +0100 (GMT Daylight Time), Robin
<***@robocog.dyndns.org> wrote :

> Slack moment on TV and HT set on charge
> Thaught I'd start the barometer adjustments before venturing out to Maplin
> in the AM to get a pair of variable resistors for the final calibration
> tool...
> However at some point the VR2 5k trimmer stopped working...
> Does anyone have time to just have a quick look at Maplins site
> http://www.maplin.co.uk/ and tell me if UH24B would make a suitable
> replacement ?
>
> Heres there techno gumph ( often not 100% correct )
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> SNIP >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> A 22-turn cermet preset with slipping clutch (25 mechanical turns) and an
> audible click at each end of travel to define the ends. This professional
> quality trimmer is designed for applications where reliability and small
> size are major considerations. Infinite electrical resolution. Power
> rating 0.5W at 70°C. Tolerance ±10%. Max working voltage 300V. Temperature
> coefficient: ±100ppm/°C max.
> Values available:
> 1k, 5k, 10k, 50k, 100k, 1M.
> The dustproof and immersion-proof case measures 9.6 x 4.8 x 10mm high.
> Drive head stands a further 1.5mm high. Lead length 6.2mm. Pins are
> in-line on 2.54mm (0.1in.) centres.
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> Any help offered would be appreciated
> I'm kicking myself for soldering them in first - but I guess I would have
> been asking the same question on the list as I would have probably lost
> them between building them and the setting up !
>
> Regards
> Rob
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
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>
>
>
Mark
2002-10-05 10:07:33 UTC
Permalink
In message <***@webmail2.knology.net>
"***@knology.net" <***@knology.net> wrote:

[snip]
>
> A good long burn-in once the cal is close makes it easier. 24 hours is not
> unreasonable once rough calibration is dialed in.

- and the input voltage just begs for a little 12v lead-acid battery trickle
charged at 13.6v; my baro seemed to get upset when the power was interrupted,
and the hard-wired battery solved that...

>
[snip]

--
E.Mark Jolliffe, Cert.Ed. BA BSc(Hons) DipPolCon
www.poppy-land.co.uk
David W. Bray
2002-10-05 12:52:32 UTC
Permalink
There have been 3 "Bray/Jennings" designs published. These are:

1) Original version 1.0 -- http://www.davidbray.org/onewire/barometer0.html
This design had a transistor voltage level changer causing it to be too
temperature sensitive.

2) Version 1.1a -- http://www.davidbray.org/onewire/barometer.html
This design removed the level changer. This has proven to be a stable
design. The reason for the 'a' in version 1.1a is to indicate there were
resistor changes from version 1.1 to give it more altitude range. Version
1.1 was never published.
Jim Jennings created printed circuit boards for this design.
It is also 5 Volt only. As such it easy use in 1-Wire systems.

3) Version 2.0 -- http://www.davidbray.org/onewire/baro20.html
This design has improved resolution by adding a second required power
voltage -- 10 Volts. Two voltages regulators are incorporated in the
design to provide both 5 and 10 Volts. This means that the barometer
requires a minimum of 12 Volts input.
The resolution of V2.0 is more than 2 times that of V1.1a, depending on
desired barometric pressure range.
Jim Jennings also created printed circuit boards for this design.

Variations:
1) http://www.davidbray.org/onewire/baro2030.html
This web page discusses Version 3.0. Version 2.0 and 3.0 differ only in
the available printed circuit boards and the choice of components. This web
page describes this in detail.

2) http://www.simat.org.uk/barometer.html
Simon Atkin has designed another version and printed circuit board of
Version 2.0. This is available as a kit.

Summary:
Version 1.1a is 5 Volt only -- less resolution but easy to interface.
Version 2.0, Version 3.0 and Simon Atkins' Version differ only in choice
of components, and available printed circuit boards. All of these versions
are essentially the same and have the same stability.

Jim Jennings has printed circuit boards for V1.1a, V2.0, and V3.0. These
allow you to change resistor components for ones own desired altitude,
pressure range, etc. There is an Excel simulator to assist in resistor
choices for ones desires.

David Bray

At 03:37 PM 10/4/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>http://www.davidbray.org/onewire/barometer.html
>
>has detailed info on the bray barometer. Is this link still valid from a
>contemporary suggested barometer standpoint, or has it been replaced by
>better, more stable designs. If the latter is the case, is there a pointer
>to the currently favored design....?
>
>thanks!
>
>John Edelmann
>
>_______________________________________________
>Weather mailing list
>***@dalsemi.com
>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather

David W. Bray
E-mail: ***@twcny.rr.com
HomePages: http://davidbray.org
r***@knology.net
2002-10-10 18:47:10 UTC
Permalink
FYI:

The Synergy ANPC135 surplus MCX connector antenna cable DIRECTLY plugs into
the OCX connector on the BG Micro receivers. Snaps in firmly and stays in.
Go figure...

I don't have a way to power them up yet, but the antenna plugs in 'just
fine'. I'm also waiting for TAPR to respond with an interface card....and
have heard nothing except 'we got your order'.

A group buy (for the rest of the mob) may be a good idea. Unfortunately I
paid their surplus list price. The order arrived within a week.

--Rich

On Thu, 10 Oct 2002 13:13:10 -0500, "David Gahagan" <***@gahagan.org>
wrote :

> The Oncore doesn't have a BNC connector. I can't identify the adapter it
> has.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Lang" <***@brightnoise.com>
> To: <***@dalsemi.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2002 11:14 AM
> Subject: Re: [weather] GPS antenna
>
>
> > I've looked at several sites and found the OCX connector called a MCX
> > connector. Is this correct? If so is anyone interested in doing a bulk
> > purchase, Synery Systems seems to have several choices. I'll handle
> > shipping them to everyone.
> >
> > John
> >
> > Philip Gladstone wrote:
> >
> > > John Lang wrote:
> > >
> > >> I've sent a couple of email to Arnie Speer regarding the antenna, but
> > >> I've been having ISP trouble. Has any one else been able to order
> > >> from him?
> > >>
> > > Yes -- I ordered, and have now received two antennas. They have BNC
> > > connectors on the end of 20ft tails. They look reasonable
> > > weatherproof. I don't know whether they will work as I haven't (yet)
> > > received my ONCORE units....
> > >
> > > Philip
> > >
> >
> > --
> > John Lang,
> > E-mail: ***@brightnoise.com
> >
> > BrightNoise Inc.,
> > 16111 East Carmel Drive,
> > Fountain Hills, AZ 85268
> > Tel: (480) 837-5483, Fax: (480) 837-5189
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Weather mailing list
> > ***@dalsemi.com
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
> >
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
r***@knology.net
2002-10-15 18:43:16 UTC
Permalink
Success.....of sorts.

Have a TAPR interface board that I managed to add a backup battery and 1PPS
circuit to, neatly strapped to one of the Oncore boards and a Synergy
Systems antenna. It now knows where it is, in spite of being only able to
see 3 birds to the south of my office--it does not like metal roofs!

Still having no luck getting it to switch to NEMA message mode with the
Motorola software. Any ideas?

Really need a nicer board from Simon, et. al. (hint, hint)

--Rich
Michael Muniz
2002-10-15 21:30:33 UTC
Permalink
Use VisualGPS http://www.visualgps.net/VisualGPS/default.htm as I could not
get the Motorola software to switch it to NEMA mode either...

----- Original Message -----
From: <***@knology.net>
To: <***@dalsemi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 11:43 AM
Subject: [weather] Oncore Receiver UP!


> Success.....of sorts.
>
> Have a TAPR interface board that I managed to add a backup battery and
1PPS
> circuit to, neatly strapped to one of the Oncore boards and a Synergy
> Systems antenna. It now knows where it is, in spite of being only able to
> see 3 birds to the south of my office--it does not like metal roofs!
>
> Still having no luck getting it to switch to NEMA message mode with the
> Motorola software. Any ideas?
>
> Really need a nicer board from Simon, et. al. (hint, hint)
>
> --Rich
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
Doug Sutherland
2002-10-15 22:07:17 UTC
Permalink
Michael Muniz wrote:

> Use VisualGPS http://www.visualgps.net/VisualGPS/default.htm as I could
> not get the Motorola software to switch it to NEMA mode either...

Communicating with these oncore receivers is a bit tricky.
Actually it's a lot like 1-wire programming, you have to
send a command and a checksum. I wired the TTL serial pins
on the oncore directly to a microcontroller. A very simple
program send "@@Eq" followed by checksum 69 Xor 113 Xor 0.
This gets the receiver pushing data at me. The uC then
just forwards the data to the PC over another port. I did
this because I wanted to interface other devices too like
digital compasses and text displays. If you simply put a
MAX232 (plus capacitors) between the oncore TTL serial
pins and the PC serial port, it's the same drill, send
the motorola binary command to configure the receiver,
followed by the checksum. Aside from MAX232, DS275 would
probably do the trick too, with no external capacitors
and a nice and small 8-pin DIP.

The Oncore documentation is here:
http://www.motorola.com/ies/GPS/products/legacyproducts.html#download

Take a look at the commands in chaptersb 5 and 6
http://www.motorola.com/ies/GPS/download/gpsusersguide/gpsusersguidev5chap5.pdf
http://www.motorola.com/ies/GPS/download/gpsusersguide/gpsusersguidev5chap6.pdf

Ah yes, refreshing my memory, the @@eq command puts the
receiver in "ASCII Position Message" mode which is not
NMEA but gives a convenient text-based string of data
once per second (actually, the interval is selectable).
Some of you folks will want to look at the 1PPS commands.

So there are three GPS modes: motorola binary (gives you
tons of extra capabilities), NMEA mode (follows the NMEA
text string standard), and ASCII mode (simpler to deal
with than NMEA). All of these can be cofigured so the
receiver sends continuously (at selectable intervals) or
only when polled. And you'll see tons of command related
to time (1PPS and UTC etc) in the command list above.

In all cases its simple to program, send @@ followed by
the motorola command (Letter plus number combination),
followed by the checksum, followed by <CR><LF> or ASCII
10 and 13. Pick your mode and you're on the way.

The TTL serial pins are described in chapter 3. Pin 1
is transmit and pin 2 is receive. I have tried this all
different ways: with MAX232 to PC serial port, to a uC,
and all three modes: binary, NMEA, and ASCII mode. This
is a nice receiver! Mine has been collecting dust for a
while but its about to get fired up again.

For kicks, I used the oncore receiver as a Doug Tracker
for one full month, sending my position to a fixed
server over the ricochet wireless network. The oncore
was hooked up to an embedded PC on body ...

-- Doug



>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <***@knology.net>
> To: <***@dalsemi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 11:43 AM
> Subject: [weather] Oncore Receiver UP!
>
> > Success.....of sorts.
> >
> > Have a TAPR interface board that I managed to add a backup battery and
> 1PPS
> > circuit to, neatly strapped to one of the Oncore boards and a Synergy
> > Systems antenna. It now knows where it is, in spite of being only able to
> > see 3 birds to the south of my office--it does not like metal roofs!
> >
> > Still having no luck getting it to switch to NEMA message mode with the
> > Motorola software. Any ideas?
> >
> > Really need a nicer board from Simon, et. al. (hint, hint)
> >
> > --Rich
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Weather mailing list
> > ***@dalsemi.com
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
Philip Gladstone
2002-10-16 03:43:48 UTC
Permalink
For those who wondered -- the antenna from Arnie Speer does work with
the Oncore receiver.

If we are going to design and build a better interface, what should it
do? One thought was to make it a USB device -- providing power and also
the serial connection. However, I couldn't find a really good chip to
fit. The Cypress EZUSB parts are expensive (AN2135 - $10), and the TI
parts (TUSB3410) are cheaper but don't have5V tolerant IO. Also, it is
unclear that there is a good solution to generating the 5V required by
the oncore unit. Maxim has a MAX5008 part that can provide 125mA while
the Oncore says that it can consume up to 200mA. I haven't actually
measured mine.

Philip

--
Philip Gladstone
* Check out the live pondcam at http://pond.gladstonefamily.net
John Lang
2002-10-16 04:07:48 UTC
Permalink
USB would be nice, even if it cost a few extra bucks. That way I could
use the single serial port in my laptop to run my new iCom PCR-1000 and
know exactly when NOAA-17 was passing over head :-)

John

Philip Gladstone wrote:

> For those who wondered -- the antenna from Arnie Speer does work with
> the Oncore receiver.
>
> If we are going to design and build a better interface, what should it
> do? One thought was to make it a USB device -- providing power and
> also the serial connection. However, I couldn't find a really good
> chip to fit. The Cypress EZUSB parts are expensive (AN2135 - $10), and
> the TI parts (TUSB3410) are cheaper but don't have5V tolerant IO.
> Also, it is unclear that there is a good solution to generating the 5V
> required by the oncore unit. Maxim has a MAX5008 part that can provide
> 125mA while the Oncore says that it can consume up to 200mA. I haven't
> actually measured mine.
>
> Philip
>

--
John Lang,
E-mail: ***@brightnoise.com

BrightNoise Inc.,
16111 East Carmel Drive,
Fountain Hills, AZ 85268
Tel: (480) 837-5483, Fax: (480) 837-5189
Simon Atkin
2002-10-16 12:27:56 UTC
Permalink
Sounds good, what USB device driver can we use for this type of setup,
is there a generic / manufacturer one or do we need to write our own.

Simon
http://www.simat.org.uk


----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip Gladstone" <***@gladstonefamily.net>
To: <***@dalsemi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 4:43 AM
Subject: Re: [weather] Oncore Receiver UP!


> For those who wondered -- the antenna from Arnie Speer does work with
> the Oncore receiver.
>
> If we are going to design and build a better interface, what should it
> do? One thought was to make it a USB device -- providing power and also
> the serial connection. However, I couldn't find a really good chip to
> fit. The Cypress EZUSB parts are expensive (AN2135 - $10), and the TI
> parts (TUSB3410) are cheaper but don't have5V tolerant IO. Also, it is
> unclear that there is a good solution to generating the 5V required by
> the oncore unit. Maxim has a MAX5008 part that can provide 125mA while
> the Oncore says that it can consume up to 200mA. I haven't actually
> measured mine.
>
> Philip
>
> --
> Philip Gladstone
> * Check out the live pondcam at http://pond.gladstonefamily.net
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
Philip Gladstone
2002-10-17 04:04:04 UTC
Permalink
Simon Atkin wrote:

>Sounds good, what USB device driver can we use for this type of setup,
>is there a generic / manufacturer one or do we need to write our own.
>
>Simon
>http://www.simat.org.uk
>
>
After some more research, I think that (for USB) this is the way to go:

AN2131SC with a serial EEPROM attached. [This allows the device to boot
without host intervention. The EEPROM can be programmed via the USB]
3.3V regulator
Ideally, there should be a power switch to shut off power to the GPS
module. Various MAX parts fit the bill.
BNC connector for antenna
Flashing LED for kicks

Parts cost under $20

Use standard Windows drivers. Use standard linux drivers. Use sample
Serial firmware from Cypress (or the firmware that ships as part of the
Linux kernel).

The only issue is how to handle the 1-pps signal in a sane way. My
feeling is that cunning use of the isochronous transfer modes could
help. With some care, it might be possible to get sub 100usec accuracy
through the USB path. The isochronous transfers happen every 1ms and so
the device could send the position of the 1-pps pulse relative to the
1ms frame boundaries.

I found a place on the 'net that was selling remaindered Xircom serial
USB adapters. It looks as those they contain the AN213x chip. I ordered
a couple of them, either to hack apart to connect to the GPS receiver,
or just to play with. See
http://www.centrix-intl.com/list.asp?CategoryID=9 and scroll down to
U1S25. They are $4 each. The shipping is a bit steep, so it pays to buy
a bunch. You also need the USB cables as well ($2 each).

*Warning* I have never looked inside one of these devices. My total
information was gleaned from the Linux kernel sources which use EzUSB
(trademark for AN213x) drivers to drive the Xircom PGS device.

Philip

--
Philip Gladstone
* Check out the live pondcam at http://pond.gladstonefamily.net
S Parkis
2002-10-23 04:53:49 UTC
Permalink
Clay-

If your software can pry a "Position/Status/Data Message" out of your
(Motorola Oncore GT, yes?) GPS unit, it will tell you lots of good
info such as how many satellites are being tracked, date, time,
position, velocity, antenna current characteristics, etc. This is a
Motorola Binary Format message.

You can also use other commands to set date, time, position, etc.
manually to verify you're reading out these data correctly.

The specs say your unit should get a fix in 90-210 seconds from a
cold startup. Mine has been meeting that spec so long as the
antenna has a reasonably unobstructed view of the sky.

FWIW, I'm driving my Oncore from a Parallax Basic Stamp 2, and
developing algorithms for the creation of a PIC-based system that
will allow access of the GPS as just another 1-wire device.

Regards,

Steve

On 22 Oct 02 at 18:52, Clay Jackson wrote:

> OK - so I've got the TAPR interface, and managed to get Visual GPS
> to get it sending NMEA data; and there's 4.9V on the antenna lead;
> but, I've been waiting 30 minutes and still see only zeros in the
> position and time data.
>
> How long should I expect it to take to initialize; and what
> troubleshooting can I do - my antenna is an EBay special, but was
> sold as a 5V active antenna.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Clay Jackson - N7QNM
> ***@nwlink.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
John Lang
2002-10-24 18:47:41 UTC
Permalink
My daughter (8years old) is sitting here working on a math and science
CD and it is teaching here basic electrical theory, she loves it. Does
anyone know of an advanced electronics learning program on CD available
for Dad?
Between this and her desire to get her tech. lic. for Ham I think I'm
going to need to learn a whole lot more then I know now!

--
John Lang,
E-mail: ***@brightnoise.com

BrightNoise Inc.,
16111 East Carmel Drive,
Fountain Hills, AZ 85268
Tel: (480) 837-5483, Fax: (480) 837-5189
John Lydic
2002-10-25 01:48:01 UTC
Permalink
There a great course (rather expensive but heavily subsidized by the
U.S. Taxpayer ;~) used by the Navy. It's called NEETS (Navy Electricity
and Electronics Training Series) and is available online (HTML or PDF)
and on CDROM. Starts rather basic and go to rather advanced topics in
almost 5000 pages. As a degree'd engineer (BSEE) I've found it a great
review for areas I haven't worked with in a while (in some cases a long
while). I simply downloaded all of the pdf's and the index.html file
and burned them onto a CD. It's about 57 Meg total and I think it's all
in the public domain.

CDROM: ($3.00)

http://www.millwright.org/CD-Sales/NEETS.html

WEB:

http://www.iirg.org/ticom/neets/

https://www.advancement.cnet.navy.mil/navigation/catalognavigation/ncourses.htm

http://www.tpub.com/neets/


Google will probably show you a few more instances of it.

Hope this helps

John Lang wrote:
>
> My daughter (8years old) is sitting here working on a math and science
> CD and it is teaching here basic electrical theory, she loves it. Does
> anyone know of an advanced electronics learning program on CD available
> for Dad?
> Between this and her desire to get her tech. lic. for Ham I think I'm
> going to need to learn a whole lot more then I know now!
>
> --
> John Lang,
> E-mail: ***@brightnoise.com
>
> BrightNoise Inc.,
> 16111 East Carmel Drive,
> Fountain Hills, AZ 85268
> Tel: (480) 837-5483, Fax: (480) 837-5189
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather

--

John Lydic ***@urec.net ***@arrl.net
NRA Life Member, Certified Instructor & Training Counselor
Refuse to be a victim (tm) Instructor
Hunter Education Instructor (Ohio)

Sr. Software Internet Systems Engineer, Product Design & Development, WorldCom
***@wcom.com

"I would be most content if my children grew up to be
the kind of people who think decorating consists mostly
of building enough bookshelves."

Anna Quindlen
Dean Maluski
2002-10-25 03:27:25 UTC
Permalink
GREAT FIND! Burning that CD myself!!

John Lydic wrote:

> There a great course (rather expensive but heavily subsidized by the
> U.S. Taxpayer ;~) used by the Navy. It's called NEETS (Navy Electricity
> and Electronics Training Series) and is available online (HTML or PDF)
> and on CDROM. Starts rather basic and go to rather advanced topics in
> almost 5000 pages. As a degree'd engineer (BSEE) I've found it a great
> review for areas I haven't worked with in a while (in some cases a long
> while). I simply downloaded all of the pdf's and the index.html file
> and burned them onto a CD. It's about 57 Meg total and I think it's all
> in the public domain.
>
> CDROM: ($3.00)
>
> http://www.millwright.org/CD-Sales/NEETS.html
>
> WEB:
>
> http://www.iirg.org/ticom/neets/
>
> https://www.advancement.cnet.navy.mil/navigation/catalognavigation/ncourses.htm
>
> http://www.tpub.com/neets/
>
>
> Google will probably show you a few more instances of it.
>
> Hope this helps
>
>John Lang wrote:
>
>>My daughter (8years old) is sitting here working on a math and science
>>CD and it is teaching here basic electrical theory, she loves it. Does
>>anyone know of an advanced electronics learning program on CD available
>>for Dad?
>>Between this and her desire to get her tech. lic. for Ham I think I'm
>>going to need to learn a whole lot more then I know now!
>>
>>--
>>John Lang,
>>E-mail: ***@brightnoise.com
>>
>>BrightNoise Inc.,
>>16111 East Carmel Drive,
>>Fountain Hills, AZ 85268
>>Tel: (480) 837-5483, Fax: (480) 837-5189
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>Weather mailing list
>>***@dalsemi.com
>>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
>>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>>
>

--
____________________
> Dean Maluski <
> http://n0ety.com <
--------------------
r***@knology.net
2002-10-15 22:26:47 UTC
Permalink
Go figure--

Now the silly Motorola software is switching modes, but its doing NEMA
messages at 9600 baud....which is fine for this computer, bad news for
APRS, I guess.

Interesting to wathc satillite signals drop off as they get north of my
office window (faces south) where the antenna is sitting on the sill.

I'll try visual gps later....

On Tue, 15 Oct 2002 14:30:33 -0700, "Michael Muniz" <***@muniz.org>
wrote :

> Use VisualGPS http://www.visualgps.net/VisualGPS/default.htm as I could
not
> get the Motorola software to switch it to NEMA mode either...
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <***@knology.net>
> To: <***@dalsemi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 11:43 AM
> Subject: [weather] Oncore Receiver UP!
>
>
> > Success.....of sorts.
> >
> > Have a TAPR interface board that I managed to add a backup battery and
> 1PPS
> > circuit to, neatly strapped to one of the Oncore boards and a Synergy
> > Systems antenna. It now knows where it is, in spite of being only able
to
> > see 3 birds to the south of my office--it does not like metal roofs!
> >
> > Still having no luck getting it to switch to NEMA message mode with the
> > Motorola software. Any ideas?
> >
> > Really need a nicer board from Simon, et. al. (hint, hint)
> >
> > --Rich
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Weather mailing list
> > ***@dalsemi.com
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
David Fullmer
2002-10-16 14:15:50 UTC
Permalink
USB has my vote too!! I know that I'm always seeming to bump into the limit
of only having two built in serial ports to play with. As a matter of fact,
I found myself wondering if anybody makes an RS232/USB interface, but I
haven't spent any effort looking yet.

- Dave -
Raak, Cory
2002-10-16 14:43:33 UTC
Permalink
I have a USB to RS232 hub....USB in...2 USB out and 4 serial lines
out....Works well


>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: David Fullmer [mailto:***@systima.com]
>>Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 10:16 AM
>>To: ***@dalsemi.com
>>Subject: RE: [weather] Oncore Receiver UP!
>>
>>
>>USB has my vote too!! I know that I'm always seeming to bump
>>into the limit
>>of only having two built in serial ports to play with. As a
>>matter of fact,
>>I found myself wondering if anybody makes an RS232/USB
>>interface, but I
>>haven't spent any effort looking yet.
>>
>> - Dave -
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>Weather mailing list
>>***@dalsemi.com
>>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
>>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>>
Vigen, Gary
2002-10-16 15:14:01 UTC
Permalink
I found a bunch of RS232/USB interfaces at my local Target store.
They were designed to interface a PDA to a PC but they behave
very generically. I'm using them as a 3rd (& 4th) COM port.
I haven't tried going to 5th and above yet. Mfr: Belkins.
Originally $30, but clearance priced at $8 each.

Gary Vigen

-----Original Message-----
From: David Fullmer [mailto:***@systima.com]
Sent: 16 octobre 2002 09:16
To: ***@dalsemi.com
Subject: RE: [weather] Oncore Receiver UP!


USB has my vote too!! I know that I'm always seeming to bump into the limit
of only having two built in serial ports to play with. As a matter of fact,
I found myself wondering if anybody makes an RS232/USB interface, but I
haven't spent any effort looking yet.

- Dave -
Philip Gladstone
2002-10-16 18:09:28 UTC
Permalink
As far as I can make out, modern versions of windows have native support for
RS-232 converters. The only hassle is to write the .INF file that ties the
device code to the fact that it should use the usbser.sys driver (but there
are plenty of examples around).

If the AN213x part is used, then the firmware is downloaded from the windows
box at power up. I am unclear how to integrate this aspect. However, just
looking at how Keyspan do it for their dongles might well be informative.
See http://www.omnigroup.com/~wiml/soft/pic/keyspan.html for interesting
information.

What suprises me is that I couldn't find the code for loading the firmware
on the Cypress site.

Philip

-----Original Message-----
From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com]On
Behalf Of Simon Atkin
Sent: Wednesday, 16 October, 2002 08:28 AM
To: ***@dalsemi.com
Subject: Re: [weather] Oncore Receiver UP!


Sounds good, what USB device driver can we use for this type of setup,
is there a generic / manufacturer one or do we need to write our own.

Simon
http://www.simat.org.uk


----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip Gladstone" <***@gladstonefamily.net>
To: <***@dalsemi.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 4:43 AM
Subject: Re: [weather] Oncore Receiver UP!


> For those who wondered -- the antenna from Arnie Speer does work with
> the Oncore receiver.
>
> If we are going to design and build a better interface, what should it
> do? One thought was to make it a USB device -- providing power and also
> the serial connection. However, I couldn't find a really good chip to
> fit. The Cypress EZUSB parts are expensive (AN2135 - $10), and the TI
> parts (TUSB3410) are cheaper but don't have5V tolerant IO. Also, it is
> unclear that there is a good solution to generating the 5V required by
> the oncore unit. Maxim has a MAX5008 part that can provide 125mA while
> the Oncore says that it can consume up to 200mA. I haven't actually
> measured mine.
>
> Philip
>
> --
> Philip Gladstone
> * Check out the live pondcam at http://pond.gladstonefamily.net
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
Robert Copelan
2002-10-16 18:25:45 UTC
Permalink
I have seen today the input for the OnCore interface board. While
interfacing it to USB on the PC definatly looks good I think that a serial
interface would be more universal (there exist RS232 to USB
convertors, also some people may be using older systems that don't have
USB).

For my particular application I would like to interface the
OnCore to the TINI. Seems that the best way to do this is via RS232.

Maybe the board design can be such that there is a basic minimum circuit
for communication with the OnCore and then components added for additional
features as needed.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Robert
WB4DHC/DL4GRC
Friedrichshafen, Germany
Tom Snyder
2002-10-16 19:17:28 UTC
Permalink
Another vote for USB. After taking a quick look at this site:
www.delcom-eng.com the interface can be both serial and USB as one
still needs a MSX232 chip. The site is dedicated to "Add USB to your next
project".

tom snyder victorville ca

_________________________________________________________________
Choose an Internet access plan right for you -- try MSN!
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
r***@knology.net
2002-10-16 19:15:43 UTC
Permalink
I had a bit of a hassle finding the right coin cell holder, but butchered a
slightly bigger one onto the back of the TAPR card. I also added the logic
circuit for the 1PPS output and LED so I can tell when the receiver
is 'happy' and came up fully.

Yeah, its hard to beat their price for a reliable RS-232 interface and
switching 5v power supply. I'm been running mine from a standard 9-volt
battery for short periods, a Radio Shack universal adapter (wall-wart or
car-type) for longer periods.

The one thing that bugged me a bit about the TAPR board is that it is one-
sided, with no plated thru holes and no ground plane--that made mounting
the battery holder on the foil side a bit of a bear. it also was hard to
get it to solder, unlike the very nice boards Simon supplied!

I agree that RS-232 is reasonable for experimentation--I don't have a
laptop that does USB yet...and RS-232 is good for APRS systems as well.

Hm, self-tracking car would not be too hard with a few more spare
parts....<evil grin>

--Rich

On Wed, 16 Oct 2002 14:55:21 -0400, Russ Hummel <***@HSC.VCU.EDU> wrote :

> I just received my 5 TAPR interface boards for the Motorola Oncore
> receivers. The order took less than 1 week to receiver after I ordered
> online. These boards are excellent. I designed and built similar boards
for
> a Rockwell GPS engine and by the time I designed the boards, had them
> made, ordered all the parts and connectors I had a lot more time and
effort
> in the project than the $ 35.00 TAPR charges for their interface. I like
> building and stuffing PCB's as well as the next guy, but I had my Oncore
> talking NEMA in 20 minutes from the time the UPS guy dropped off the
> box. The parts are already soldered on the board for those w/o soldering
> skills. I had to solder 5 wires ( supplied) and 3 connections to the
> supplied DB-9 connector. Hooked it up and it worked as expected first
> try. The only thing left to add is a Lithium battery holder and a
battery
> for the memory backup on the receiver. I cannot imagine a better solution
> to the interface issue
>
> just my $ 0.02
> Russ Hummel, WB4PGT
> -
> Russ Hummel MSBME, NREMT-P
> Biomedical Engineer for the MITAC NASA Commercial Space Center
> Department of Surgery
> Virginia Commonwealth University Medical College of Va. Campus
> P.O.Box 980480 MCV
> Richmond, VA 23298-0480
> 804-828-2212 FAX 827-1029
> ***@VCU.EDU
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
TK Boyd
2002-10-17 08:47:16 UTC
Permalink
Give me inexpensive single sided boards over the virtues of the fancier
ones, when possible, even if it means soldering in a few links.

Just one opinion!

Tom Boyd

Message text written by INTERNET:***@dalsemi.com
>Yeah, its hard to beat their price for a reliable RS-232 interface and
switching 5v power supply. I'm been running mine from a standard 9-volt
battery for short periods, a Radio Shack universal adapter (wall-wart or
car-type) for longer periods.

The one thing that bugged me a bit about the TAPR board is that it is one-
sided, with no plated thru holes and no ground plane<
Rich Beckwith
2002-12-25 02:23:02 UTC
Permalink
I have managed to figure out the placement for most of the components
without a schematic. Since this version of the board has only 8 resistors
it doesn't match any of the previous BP sensor schematics, even those that
are also supposed to be version 3. Can someone provide me with the values
for R1 to R8 so I can finish this up and attempt calibration?

Rich - Wn0x
Tom Nolan
2002-12-25 04:23:00 UTC
Permalink
Hi Rich,

Everything is on Simon's web site @ http://www.simat.enta.net/

Thomas

Rich Beckwith wrote:
> I have managed to figure out the placement for most of the components
> without a schematic. Since this version of the board has only 8 resistors
> it doesn't match any of the previous BP sensor schematics, even those that
> are also supposed to be version 3. Can someone provide me with the values
> for R1 to R8 so I can finish this up and attempt calibration?
>
> Rich - Wn0x
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
Rich Beckwith
2002-12-25 15:39:09 UTC
Permalink
Thanks, There appear to be at least two "version 3.0" boards, and at least
two version of the "support" package for version 3.0.

Rich - Wn0x

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Nolan" <***@sympatico.ca>
To: <***@dalsemi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2002 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: [weather] Resistors for Version 3.0 SMT BP sensor


> Hi Rich,
>
> Everything is on Simon's web site @ http://www.simat.enta.net/
>
> Thomas
>
> Rich Beckwith wrote:
> > I have managed to figure out the placement for most of the components
> > without a schematic. Since this version of the board has only 8
resistors
> > it doesn't match any of the previous BP sensor schematics, even those
that
> > are also supposed to be version 3. Can someone provide me with the
values
> > for R1 to R8 so I can finish this up and attempt calibration?
> >
> > Rich - Wn0x
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Weather mailing list
> > ***@dalsemi.com
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
> >
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
Clay Jackson
2002-10-23 01:52:14 UTC
Permalink
OK - so I've got the TAPR interface, and managed to get Visual GPS to
get it sending NMEA data; and there's 4.9V on the antenna lead; but,
I've been waiting 30 minutes and still see only zeros in the position
and time data.

How long should I expect it to take to initialize; and what
troubleshooting can I do - my antenna is an EBay special, but was sold
as a 5V active antenna.

Thanks in advance!

Clay Jackson - N7QNM
***@nwlink.com
Leslie Loftin
2002-10-23 02:10:50 UTC
Permalink
May be a dumb question, but is your antenna inside or outside. The GPS
signal will not penetrate much in the way of walls or roofs.

Leslie WD5BYQ


On Tuesday, October 22, 2002, at 08:52 PM, Clay Jackson wrote:

> OK - so I've got the TAPR interface, and managed to get Visual GPS to
> get it sending NMEA data; and there's 4.9V on the antenna lead; but,
> I've been waiting 30 minutes and still see only zeros in the position
> and time data.
>
> How long should I expect it to take to initialize; and what
> troubleshooting can I do - my antenna is an EBay special, but was sold
> as a 5V active antenna.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Clay Jackson - N7QNM
> ***@nwlink.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
Clay Jackson
2002-10-23 04:19:35 UTC
Permalink
The antenna's outside - next to the house, but with a pretty reasonable
'view'. In fact, it's right next to an old Delorme EarthMate that I'm
using as a clock reference - the EarthMate has been locked for months,
and only took about 30 minutes to lock when I first brought it up.

I'm gonna leave the antenna out overnight and see what happens.

Clay


-----Original Message-----
From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie Loftin
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 7:11 PM
To: ***@dalsemi.com
Subject: Re: [weather] How long to initialize GPS

May be a dumb question, but is your antenna inside or outside. The GPS
signal will not penetrate much in the way of walls or roofs.

Leslie WD5BYQ


On Tuesday, October 22, 2002, at 08:52 PM, Clay Jackson wrote:

> OK - so I've got the TAPR interface, and managed to get Visual GPS to
> get it sending NMEA data; and there's 4.9V on the antenna lead; but,
> I've been waiting 30 minutes and still see only zeros in the position
> and time data.
>
> How long should I expect it to take to initialize; and what
> troubleshooting can I do - my antenna is an EBay special, but was sold
> as a 5V active antenna.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Clay Jackson - N7QNM
> ***@nwlink.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
Clay Jackson
2002-10-23 04:40:31 UTC
Permalink
OK - now I'm even MORE confused! I went back to the Motorola GPS
program, reset the baud rate to 9600, fed the GPS the almanac that came
with the program and set my position. Less than 1 minute later, it
acquired a satellite. I have NO idea why the initialization stuff I
did earlier didn't 'take'.

Anyone got any thoughts?

Clay - N7QNM


-----Original Message-----
From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com] On
Behalf Of Clay Jackson
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 6:52 PM
To: ***@dalsemi.com
Subject: [weather] How long to initialize GPS

OK - so I've got the TAPR interface, and managed to get Visual GPS to
get it sending NMEA data; and there's 4.9V on the antenna lead; but,
I've been waiting 30 minutes and still see only zeros in the position
and time data.

How long should I expect it to take to initialize; and what
troubleshooting can I do - my antenna is an EBay special, but was sold
as a 5V active antenna.

Thanks in advance!

Clay Jackson - N7QNM
***@nwlink.com
r***@knology.net
2002-10-28 22:07:12 UTC
Permalink
One of the things I had a spot of trouble with was being absolutely certain
all the pads on the chips were all theway down on the board. Sometimes
they will sit a bit high, and the chips will power up, but will not be seen
on the network.

Minimal amounts of well-flowed solder and enough flux seems to be the key
to getting them all the way down. I had to carefully heat and press two
cips down when they failed to talk on the net...

--Rich

On Mon, 28 Oct 2002 14:42:23 -0700, Matthias Schnizer
<***@schnizer.com> wrote :

> Thanks to all who responded on this list as well as off the list.
> I received approx. a dozen e-mails all offering their help. I shipped
> the hub off this afternoon, choosing a volounteer here in Colorado.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Matt
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
r***@knology.net
2002-10-28 22:10:16 UTC
Permalink
another critical item is, if you have parts grounded to a metal case, is to
laso fuse the ground lead from the battery. Use the same size fuse as you
put in the hot lead. This prevents the car from drawing excess current
from your ground lead through the case of your project enclosure if the
battery ground lead is loose on the car body.

Ground loops in a car are not really a problem as long as you are inside
the same car...and the battery leads are properly connected to the engine
block and chassis.

--Rich (Been there, seen the smoke....)

On Mon, 28 Oct 2002 13:11:10 -0500, John Lydic <***@urec.net> wrote :

>
>
> Robert Copal wrote:
>
> > I am planning to connect a TINI to an OnCore GPS and LCD(CrystalFontz)
via
> > the serial interfaces in order to use the GPS in the car. I know that
> > things like ground loops and systems with grounds at different
potentials
> > can cause problems. Since each system has its own power supply (not sure
> > yet about the LCD) can they all safely be connected to the 12VDC in the
> > car or do I need some type of isolation?
> >
> > Sorry for the beginner electronic question. Ideas are appreciated.
> > Regards,
> > Robert
>
> Assuming they're in the same case together and all of the
> reference grounds for the individual power supplies are
> common, this should work fine without any ground loop
> problems. You shouldn't need to isolate but you should
> probably fuse the unit.
>
> --
>
> John Lydic ***@urec.net ***@arrl.net
> NRA Life Member, Certified Instructor & Training Counselor
> Refuse to be a victim (tm) Instructor
> Hunter Education Instructor (Ohio)
> Sr. Software Internet Systems Engineer,
> Product Design & Development,
> Network Surveillance Systems, WorldCom
> ***@wcom.net
>
> "I would be most content if my children grew up to be
> the kind of people who think decorating consists mostly
> of building enough bookshelves."
>
> Anna Quindlen
>
>
>
>
Craig spry
2002-10-29 23:19:08 UTC
Permalink
Just thought I'd let you know that I've got owis to
the stage where a simple weather station client(no
hub) is possible. I now do Analog to digital
converters, Switches(2407), Counters and Temperature
Sensors. If you want to have a bit of a play with it
go to:

www.sf.net/projects/owis

And get the code from cvs, sorry I haven't had time to
release and files yet. You'll also need the
XMLRPC-epi library to compile it. This is not for the
faint hearted yet, its almost beta. I've only tested
this on Red Hat 7.3.

There is one bug that I've found, when a client dies
mid request it takes out the server too.

Any problems/questions please email me off list.

Craig

http://careers.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Careers
- 1,000's of jobs waiting online for you!
Craig spry
2002-10-29 23:19:08 UTC
Permalink
Just thought I'd let you know that I've got owis to
the stage where a simple weather station client(no
hub) is possible. I now do Analog to digital
converters, Switches(2407), Counters and Temperature
Sensors. If you want to have a bit of a play with it
go to:

www.sf.net/projects/owis

And get the code from cvs, sorry I haven't had time to
release and files yet. You'll also need the
XMLRPC-epi library to compile it. This is not for the
faint hearted yet, its almost beta. I've only tested
this on Red Hat 7.3.

There is one bug that I've found, when a client dies
mid request it takes out the server too.

Any problems/questions please email me off list.

Craig

http://careers.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! Careers
- 1,000's of jobs waiting online for you!
r***@knology.net
2002-12-03 05:49:38 UTC
Permalink
added data see "http://www.jjware.com/Calibration%20of%20V%203.0%
20Barometer.htm" for the explanation and defaults--I was correct in prior
message--31/28 for BP, 8.25/1.25 for volts over that range. that is what
it should cal to with an offset only.
--Rich
On Mon, 2 Dec 2002 11:44:15 -0500, David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM
<***@us.ibm.com> wrote :

>
>
>
>
> I spent the long weekend diddling with my new hub and barometer and
> wserver. The hub works great, and so does the barometer except that the
> range is too much. Is there a methodology for tweaking the server.ini
> values to match the actual conditions? I have been reducing the
> BaroMultiplier and then adjusting the BaroOffset to correct it back to the
> nearby airport which is at the same elevation as I am. It has been a long,
> slow process.
>
> -dvg
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
Arne Henriksen
2002-12-03 18:56:42 UTC
Permalink
Hi David,

Just REMEMBER to read the INI-docs.htm, in the Barometer section:
There are 4 values in SENSORS.INI of importance for how WServer will do
things, with default values:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
hiBar=30.7 Upper limit of range
loBar=28.7 Lower limit of range
Vhi=3.25 VAD that is output when HiBar is input to the
barometer
Vlow=1.25 VAD that is output when LoBar in input to the
barometer
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As you see the Vhi value will default to 3.25, and this will/has cause(d)
some hair tearing regarding the V3 barometer, as you have to set it to a
considerably larger value to get a usable reading out of WServer.

If you have all of those to the same values as you calibrated your
barometer, THEN you can use the BaroMultiplier/BaroOffset to fine-adjust
things.

Regards,
Arne




David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM <***@us.ibm.com>
Sent by: weather-***@dalsemi.com
02.12.2002 17:44
Please respond to weather


To: ***@dalsemi.com
cc:
Subject: [weather] Using v3 barometer with Arne's wserver




I spent the long weekend diddling with my new hub and barometer and
wserver. The hub works great, and so does the barometer except that the
range is too much. Is there a methodology for tweaking the server.ini
values to match the actual conditions? I have been reducing the
BaroMultiplier and then adjusting the BaroOffset to correct it back to the
nearby airport which is at the same elevation as I am. It has been a long,
slow process.

-dvg
David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM
2002-12-03 19:45:25 UTC
Permalink
Hi Arne,

Yes, reading docs is good. I read them, but since I didn't do the
calibration myself I didn't realize our v3's are set up for 28.0/31.0 and
1.25/8.25. Rich pointed this out to me this morning. That will make a lot
of difference. Thanks for the reply.

-dvg

weather-***@dalsemi.com wrote on 12/03/2002 01:56:42 PM:

> Hi David,
>
> Just REMEMBER to read the INI-docs.htm, in the Barometer section:
> There are 4 values in SENSORS.INI of importance for how WServer will do
> things, with default values:
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

> hiBar=30.7 Upper limit of range
> loBar=28.7 Lower limit of range
> Vhi=3.25 VAD that is output when HiBar is input to the
> barometer
> Vlow=1.25 VAD that is output when LoBar in input to the
> barometer
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

> As you see the Vhi value will default to 3.25, and this will/has cause(d)

> some hair tearing regarding the V3 barometer, as you have to set it to a
> considerably larger value to get a usable reading out of WServer.
>
> If you have all of those to the same values as you calibrated your
> barometer, THEN you can use the BaroMultiplier/BaroOffset to fine-adjust
> things.
>
> Regards,
> Arne
>
>
>
>
> David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM <***@us.ibm.com>
> Sent by: weather-***@dalsemi.com
> 02.12.2002 17:44
> Please respond to weather
>
>
> To: ***@dalsemi.com
> cc:
> Subject: [weather] Using v3 barometer with Arne's wserver
>
>
>
>
> I spent the long weekend diddling with my new hub and barometer and
> wserver. The hub works great, and so does the barometer except that the
> range is too much. Is there a methodology for tweaking the server.ini
> values to match the actual conditions? I have been reducing the
> BaroMultiplier and then adjusting the BaroOffset to correct it back to
the
> nearby airport which is at the same elevation as I am. It has been a
long,
> slow process.
>
> -dvg
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
Arne Henriksen
2002-12-03 20:08:45 UTC
Permalink
Glad it worked out!

(As a tribute to Lotus, the INI-docs were originally generated from a
DOMINO(tm) server. :-)

Regards,
Arne
===================================================
Arne Sveinung Henriksen - CLP R5, P CLP R4





David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM <***@us.ibm.com>
Sent by: weather-***@dalsemi.com
03.12.2002 20:45
Please respond to weather


To: ***@dalsemi.com
cc:
Subject: Re: [weather] Using v3 barometer with Arne's wserver

Hi Arne,

Yes, reading docs is good. I read them, but since I didn't do the
calibration myself I didn't realize our v3's are set up for 28.0/31.0 and
1.25/8.25. Rich pointed this out to me this morning. That will make a lot
of difference. Thanks for the reply.

-dvg

weather-***@dalsemi.com wrote on 12/03/2002 01:56:42 PM:

> Hi David,
>
> Just REMEMBER to read the INI-docs.htm, in the Barometer section:
> There are 4 values in SENSORS.INI of importance fo
r***@knology.net
2003-01-28 19:02:44 UTC
Permalink
Try keeping up to 4 older Volvos at a time and kkep them running
properly....

Currently '90 760 Turbo (178,000 mi)
'94 850 Sedan (140,000 mi)
'87 740 Sedan (120,000 mi)

Once Upon a time
'84 240 Sedan (190,000 mi) Still seen around town
'77 245 Wagon (85,000 mi) Still being driven by the guy that
bought it

They just nickle and dime you to death will silly stuff--like broken radio
antenna and other plastic, hard to get parts....

But, they are solid (stolid and boring) and safe for college kids...

--Rich

On Tue, 28 Jan 2003 17:52:58 +0100, Arne Henriksen <***@henriksens.net>
wrote :

> Well.... I SWAPPED it at least. :-)
>
> Found a used, newer engine at a car breaker, but it was _a bit_ of work,
> as it was a manual, and mine was automatic: Had to swap the flywheel and
> transmission over to the 'new', and quite a lot of other gadgets...
> Anyhow, I can't be as bad as you when it comes to self-torture: THREE
> English cars, that's asking for trouble!
>
> :-)
>
> Regards,
> Arne, Trondheim - NORWAY
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> '87 MB S124 300TD Turbo 2001- 278'-315'km
> '88 MB W201 190E 1998- 165'-248'km ('new' engine
> :-)
> '79 MB W123 240D (RIP) 1987-1999 302'-570'km
> http://mercedes.henriksens.net/
>
>
>
>
> "John C" <***@clerici.com.au>
> Sent by: weather-***@dalsemi.com
> 28.01.2003 13:47
> Please respond to weather
>
>
> To: <***@dalsemi.com>
> cc:
> Subject: RE: [weather] Re: Most Recent Version of Wserve
> Hi Arne
>
> You mean to say you re-build engines too? You must be a glutton for
> punishment!
>
> Cheers
> John C
> (With a half disassembled Rangie with blown head gasket, sick '85 Rover
> SD1 and not so well '93 Daimler Double six in the shop). Welcome anytime
> here in Oz Arne ;-))
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com] On
> Behalf Of Arne Henriksen
> Sent: Tuesday, 28 January 2003 7:54
> To: ***@dalsemi.com
> Subject: Re: [weather] Re: Most Recent Version of Wserve
>
>
> Hi David!
>
> Sorry, I haven't been into updating WServer for weeks & months,
> actually....
>
> My dayjob have been taking too much time, and then my wifes car burned
> the
> engine first thing this year, leaving me with a full 3 weeks afternoons
> in
> the garage.... :-[
> Happy to announce that the 'new' engine is now in and running - so
> _maybe_
> I can look into WServer issues sometime in the not to distant future.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
MICHAEL G. SINGLETON
2003-01-29 01:58:10 UTC
Permalink
Off subject but I'm still driving my Chevrolet 4X4 truck - 250,000+ miles,
dirven daily.

Rebuilt tranny installed June 2000
New engine installed December 2001

Body and suspension is great, interior needs work.

Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <***@knology.net>
To: <***@dalsemi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 2:02 PM
Subject: RE: [weather] Re: Most Recent Version of Wserve


> Try keeping up to 4 older Volvos at a time and kkep them running
> properly....
>
> Currently '90 760 Turbo (178,000 mi)
> '94 850 Sedan (140,000 mi)
> '87 740 Sedan (120,000 mi)
>
> Once Upon a time
> '84 240 Sedan (190,000 mi) Still seen around town
> '77 245 Wagon (85,000 mi) Still being driven by the guy that
> bought it
>
> They just nickle and dime you to death will silly stuff--like broken radio
> antenna and other plastic, hard to get parts....
>
> But, they are solid (stolid and boring) and safe for college kids...
>
> --Rich
>
> On Tue, 28 Jan 2003 17:52:58 +0100, Arne Henriksen <***@henriksens.net>
> wrote :
>
> > Well.... I SWAPPED it at least. :-)
> >
> > Found a used, newer engine at a car breaker, but it was _a bit_ of work,
> > as it was a manual, and mine was automatic: Had to swap the flywheel and
> > transmission over to the 'new', and quite a lot of other gadgets...
> > Anyhow, I can't be as bad as you when it comes to self-torture: THREE
> > English cars, that's asking for trouble!
> >
> > :-)
> >
> > Regards,
> > Arne, Trondheim - NORWAY
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > '87 MB S124 300TD Turbo 2001- 278'-315'km
> > '88 MB W201 190E 1998- 165'-248'km ('new'
engine
> > :-)
> > '79 MB W123 240D (RIP) 1987-1999 302'-570'km
> > http://mercedes.henriksens.net/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "John C" <***@clerici.com.au>
> > Sent by: weather-***@dalsemi.com
> > 28.01.2003 13:47
> > Please respond to weather
> >
> >
> > To: <***@dalsemi.com>
> > cc:
> > Subject: RE: [weather] Re: Most Recent Version of Wserve
> > Hi Arne
> >
> > You mean to say you re-build engines too? You must be a glutton for
> > punishment!
> >
> > Cheers
> > John C
> > (With a half disassembled Rangie with blown head gasket, sick '85 Rover
> > SD1 and not so well '93 Daimler Double six in the shop). Welcome anytime
> > here in Oz Arne ;-))
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com] On
> > Behalf Of Arne Henriksen
> > Sent: Tuesday, 28 January 2003 7:54
> > To: ***@dalsemi.com
> > Subject: Re: [weather] Re: Most Recent Version of Wserve
> >
> >
> > Hi David!
> >
> > Sorry, I haven't been into updating WServer for weeks & months,
> > actually....
> >
> > My dayjob have been taking too much time, and then my wifes car burned
> > the
> > engine first thing this year, leaving me with a full 3 weeks afternoons
> > in
> > the garage.... :-[
> > Happy to announce that the 'new' engine is now in and running - so
> > _maybe_
> > I can look into WServer issues sometime in the not to distant future.
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Weather mailing list
> > ***@dalsemi.com
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
> >
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
Richard Janke
2003-02-05 13:10:41 UTC
Permalink
And I have an ax that belonged to Abe Lincoln. Three new handles and two new
heads but it belonged to Abe Lincoln

Richard P. Janke, Principal
Zum Kripplein Christi Lutheran Elementary School
W 1880 Rock Road
Iron Ridge, Wisconsin 53035
920-387-4564
School's Web site
http://home.earthlink.net/~janker
----- Original Message -----
From: "MICHAEL G. SINGLETON" <***@coastalnet.com>
To: <***@dalsemi.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: [weather] Re: Most Recent Version of Wserve


> Off subject but I'm still driving my Chevrolet 4X4 truck - 250,000+ miles,
> dirven daily.
>
> Rebuilt tranny installed June 2000
> New engine installed December 2001
>
> Body and suspension is great, interior needs work.
>
> Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <***@knology.net>
> To: <***@dalsemi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 2:02 PM
> Subject: RE: [weather] Re: Most Recent Version of Wserve
>
>
> > Try keeping up to 4 older Volvos at a time and kkep them running
> > properly....
> >
> > Currently '90 760 Turbo (178,000 mi)
> > '94 850 Sedan (140,000 mi)
> > '87 740 Sedan (120,000 mi)
> >
> > Once Upon a time
> > '84 240 Sedan (190,000 mi) Still seen around town
> > '77 245 Wagon (85,000 mi) Still being driven by the guy that
> > bought it
> >
> > They just nickle and dime you to death will silly stuff--like broken
radio
> > antenna and other plastic, hard to get parts....
> >
> > But, they are solid (stolid and boring) and safe for college kids...
> >
> > --Rich
> >
> > On Tue, 28 Jan 2003 17:52:58 +0100, Arne Henriksen <***@henriksens.net>
> > wrote :
> >
> > > Well.... I SWAPPED it at least. :-)
> > >
> > > Found a used, newer engine at a car breaker, but it was _a bit_ of
work,
> > > as it was a manual, and mine was automatic: Had to swap the flywheel
and
> > > transmission over to the 'new', and quite a lot of other gadgets...
> > > Anyhow, I can't be as bad as you when it comes to self-torture: THREE
> > > English cars, that's asking for trouble!
> > >
> > > :-)
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Arne, Trondheim - NORWAY
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > > '87 MB S124 300TD Turbo 2001- 278'-315'km
> > > '88 MB W201 190E 1998- 165'-248'km ('new'
> engine
> > > :-)
> > > '79 MB W123 240D (RIP) 1987-1999 302'-570'km
> > > http://mercedes.henriksens.net/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "John C" <***@clerici.com.au>
> > > Sent by: weather-***@dalsemi.com
> > > 28.01.2003 13:47
> > > Please respond to weather
> > >
> > >
> > > To: <***@dalsemi.com>
> > > cc:
> > > Subject: RE: [weather] Re: Most Recent Version of
Wserve
> > > Hi Arne
> > >
> > > You mean to say you re-build engines too? You must be a glutton for
> > > punishment!
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > John C
> > > (With a half disassembled Rangie with blown head gasket, sick '85
Rover
> > > SD1 and not so well '93 Daimler Double six in the shop). Welcome
anytime
> > > here in Oz Arne ;-))
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com] On
> > > Behalf Of Arne Henriksen
> > > Sent: Tuesday, 28 January 2003 7:54
> > > To: ***@dalsemi.com
> > > Subject: Re: [weather] Re: Most Recent Version of Wserve
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi David!
> > >
> > > Sorry, I haven't been into updating WServer for weeks & months,
> > > actually....
> > >
> > > My dayjob have been taking too much time, and then my wifes car burned
> > > the
> > > engine first thing this year, leaving me with a full 3 weeks
afternoons
> > > in
> > > the garage.... :-[
> > > Happy to announce that the 'new' engine is now in and running - so
> > > _maybe_
> > > I can look into WServer issues sometime in the not to distant future.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Weather mailing list
> > > ***@dalsemi.com
> > > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> > > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Weather mailing list
> > ***@dalsemi.com
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
Mark Micire
2003-02-05 16:44:59 UTC
Permalink
Since we are all showing off: Chevrolet S10 truck - 400,000+ miles,
driven like a dog daily.

Original engine.
Original tranny.

Runs like a scared rabbit. :)

Mark

On Tuesday, Jan 28, 2003, at 20:58 US/Eastern, MICHAEL G. SINGLETON
wrote:

> Off subject but I'm still driving my Chevrolet 4X4 truck - 250,000+
> miles,
> dirven daily.
>
> Rebuilt tranny installed June 2000
> New engine installed December 2001
>
> Body and suspension is great, interior needs work.
>
> Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <***@knology.net>
> To: <***@dalsemi.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 2:02 PM
> Subject: RE: [weather] Re: Most Recent Version of Wserve
>
>
>> Try keeping up to 4 older Volvos at a time and kkep them running
>> properly....
>>
>> Currently '90 760 Turbo (178,000 mi)
>> '94 850 Sedan (140,000 mi)
>> '87 740 Sedan (120,000 mi)
>>
>> Once Upon a time
>> '84 240 Sedan (190,000 mi) Still seen around town
>> '77 245 Wagon (85,000 mi) Still being driven by the guy that
>> bought it
>>
>> They just nickle and dime you to death will silly stuff--like broken
>> radio
>> antenna and other plastic, hard to get parts....
>>
>> But, they are solid (stolid and boring) and safe for college kids...
>>
>> --Rich
>>
>> On Tue, 28 Jan 2003 17:52:58 +0100, Arne Henriksen
>> <***@henriksens.net>
>> wrote :
>>
>>> Well.... I SWAPPED it at least. :-)
>>>
>>> Found a used, newer engine at a car breaker, but it was _a bit_ of
>>> work,
>>> as it was a manual, and mine was automatic: Had to swap the flywheel
>>> and
>>> transmission over to the 'new', and quite a lot of other gadgets...
>>> Anyhow, I can't be as bad as you when it comes to self-torture: THREE
>>> English cars, that's asking for trouble!
>>>
>>> :-)
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Arne, Trondheim - NORWAY
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>>> '87 MB S124 300TD Turbo 2001- 278'-315'km
>>> '88 MB W201 190E 1998- 165'-248'km ('new'
> engine
>>> :-)
>>> '79 MB W123 240D (RIP) 1987-1999 302'-570'km
>>> http://mercedes.henriksens.net/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "John C" <***@clerici.com.au>
>>> Sent by: weather-***@dalsemi.com
>>> 28.01.2003 13:47
>>> Please respond to weather
>>>
>>>
>>> To: <***@dalsemi.com>
>>> cc:
>>> Subject: RE: [weather] Re: Most Recent Version of
>>> Wserve
>>> Hi Arne
>>>
>>> You mean to say you re-build engines too? You must be a glutton for
>>> punishment!
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> John C
>>> (With a half disassembled Rangie with blown head gasket, sick '85
>>> Rover
>>> SD1 and not so well '93 Daimler Double six in the shop). Welcome
>>> anytime
>>> here in Oz Arne ;-))
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com] On
>>> Behalf Of Arne Henriksen
>>> Sent: Tuesday, 28 January 2003 7:54
>>> To: ***@dalsemi.com
>>> Subject: Re: [weather] Re: Most Recent Version of Wserve
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi David!
>>>
>>> Sorry, I haven't been into updating WServer for weeks & months,
>>> actually....
>>>
>>> My dayjob have been taking too much time, and then my wifes car
>>> burned
>>> the
>>> engine first thing this year, leaving me with a full 3 weeks
>>> afternoons
>>> in
>>> the garage.... :-[
>>> Happy to announce that the 'new' engine is now in and running - so
>>> _maybe_
>>> I can look into WServer issues sometime in the not to distant future.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Weather mailing list
>>> ***@dalsemi.com
>>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
>>> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Weather mailing list
>> ***@dalsemi.com
>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
>> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
r***@knology.net
2003-02-24 05:25:33 UTC
Permalink
<Grin> I need to super-glue the LaCrosse rain gauge down somewhere. I
noticed that it stopped recording sometime Sunday...turns out it was tipped
over by the wind sometime late at night....

I think I need to strap it to a brick or something....

--Rich
On Sun, 23 Feb 2003 19:39:30 -0700, "Sylvan Butler" <***@sdb.cx> wrote :

> On 23 Feb 2003 at 18:59, Jim Korman wrote:
> > Jj wrote:
> > >Time to hunt up that other lock-nut that I bought when the wind vane
> > >unscrewed itself last year! (after the wind abates, however)...
>
r***@knology.net
2003-03-07 21:53:20 UTC
Permalink
It does not cut through insulation...

They need to be stripped just enough to go into the connector. It might
also be a good idea to twist the bare strands together to avoid stray bits
causing a short.

==Rich, KE4GNK

On Fri, 7 Mar 2003 16:10:54 -0500, "lostbowyer" <***@lostbowyer.com>
wrote :

> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>
> MessageThey are self piercing
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: dalsemi weather
> To: ***@dalsemi.com
> Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 3:47 PM
> Subject: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> Maybe a daft question but I'm about to do my rain gauge conversion with
the AAG kit and it is suppled with 4 connectors for the wire, I've never
seen these before, do I strip the wires first or just push them in and the
connector will pierce through to the wire when you puch the middle in.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Keith
>
lostbowyer
2003-03-07 22:04:22 UTC
Permalink
Unless they have changed the connectors it is self piecing when you compress
the center of the connector, no insulation needs to be stripped. I installed
my kit last April and the connectors were self piercing and the description
in the post matches what I had in my kit.

----- Original Message -----
From: <***@knology.net>
To: <***@dalsemi.com>
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit


> It does not cut through insulation...
>
> They need to be stripped just enough to go into the connector. It might
> also be a good idea to twist the bare strands together to avoid stray bits
> causing a short.
>
> ==Rich, KE4GNK
>
> On Fri, 7 Mar 2003 16:10:54 -0500, "lostbowyer"
<***@lostbowyer.com>
> wrote :
>
> > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >
> >
> > MessageThey are self piercing
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: dalsemi weather
> > To: ***@dalsemi.com
> > Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 3:47 PM
> > Subject: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit
> >
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Maybe a daft question but I'm about to do my rain gauge conversion
with
> the AAG kit and it is suppled with 4 connectors for the wire, I've never
> seen these before, do I strip the wires first or just push them in and the
> connector will pierce through to the wire when you puch the middle in.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Keith
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
dalsemi weather
2003-03-07 22:18:55 UTC
Permalink
Hmmm not sure now, if I do push it in without stripping the wires and
they have changed can I pull the middle out again?

Keith

-----Original Message-----
From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com] On
Behalf Of lostbowyer
Sent: 07 March 2003 22:04
To: ***@dalsemi.com
Subject: Re: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit


Unless they have changed the connectors it is self piecing when you
compress the center of the connector, no insulation needs to be
stripped. I installed my kit last April and the connectors were self
piercing and the description in the post matches what I had in my kit.

----- Original Message -----
From: <***@knology.net>
To: <***@dalsemi.com>
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit


> It does not cut through insulation...
>
> They need to be stripped just enough to go into the connector. It
> might also be a good idea to twist the bare strands together to avoid
> stray bits causing a short.
>
> ==Rich, KE4GNK
>
> On Fri, 7 Mar 2003 16:10:54 -0500, "lostbowyer"
<***@lostbowyer.com>
> wrote :
>
> > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >
> >
> > MessageThey are self piercing
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: dalsemi weather
> > To: ***@dalsemi.com
> > Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 3:47 PM
> > Subject: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit
> >
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Maybe a daft question but I'm about to do my rain gauge conversion
with
> the AAG kit and it is suppled with 4 connectors for the wire, I've
> never seen these before, do I strip the wires first or just push them
> in and the connector will pierce through to the wire when you puch the

> middle in.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Keith
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
Aitor Arrieta
2003-03-07 23:41:28 UTC
Permalink
No we haven't changed the connectors, they are self piercing. They are rated
for wire#22
Regards
Aitor Arrieta
www.aag.com.mx

----- Original Message -----
From: "dalsemi weather" <***@brandybear.co.uk>
To: <***@dalsemi.com>
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 4:18 PM
Subject: RE: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit


> Hmmm not sure now, if I do push it in without stripping the wires and
> they have changed can I pull the middle out again?
>
> Keith
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com] On
> Behalf Of lostbowyer
> Sent: 07 March 2003 22:04
> To: ***@dalsemi.com
> Subject: Re: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit
>
>
> Unless they have changed the connectors it is self piecing when you
> compress the center of the connector, no insulation needs to be
> stripped. I installed my kit last April and the connectors were self
> piercing and the description in the post matches what I had in my kit.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <***@knology.net>
> To: <***@dalsemi.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 4:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit
>
>
> > It does not cut through insulation...
> >
> > They need to be stripped just enough to go into the connector. It
> > might also be a good idea to twist the bare strands together to avoid
> > stray bits causing a short.
> >
> > ==Rich, KE4GNK
> >
> > On Fri, 7 Mar 2003 16:10:54 -0500, "lostbowyer"
> <***@lostbowyer.com>
> > wrote :
> >
> > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> > >
> > >
> > > MessageThey are self piercing
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: dalsemi weather
> > > To: ***@dalsemi.com
> > > Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 3:47 PM
> > > Subject: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > Maybe a daft question but I'm about to do my rain gauge conversion
> with
> > the AAG kit and it is suppled with 4 connectors for the wire, I've
> > never seen these before, do I strip the wires first or just push them
> > in and the connector will pierce through to the wire when you puch the
>
> > middle in.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Keith
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Weather mailing list
> > ***@dalsemi.com
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
dalsemi weather
2003-03-08 00:52:47 UTC
Permalink
Thanks.

Keith

-----Original Message-----
From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com] On
Behalf Of Aitor Arrieta
Sent: 07 March 2003 23:41
To: ***@dalsemi.com
Subject: Re: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit


No we haven't changed the connectors, they are self piercing. They are
rated for wire#22 Regards Aitor Arrieta www.aag.com.mx

----- Original Message -----
From: "dalsemi weather" <***@brandybear.co.uk>
To: <***@dalsemi.com>
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 4:18 PM
Subject: RE: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit


> Hmmm not sure now, if I do push it in without stripping the wires and
> they have changed can I pull the middle out again?
>
> Keith
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com] On
> Behalf Of lostbowyer
> Sent: 07 March 2003 22:04
> To: ***@dalsemi.com
> Subject: Re: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit
>
>
> Unless they have changed the connectors it is self piecing when you
> compress the center of the connector, no insulation needs to be
> stripped. I installed my kit last April and the connectors were self
> piercing and the description in the post matches what I had in my kit.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <***@knology.net>
> To: <***@dalsemi.com>
> Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 4:53 PM
> Subject: Re: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit
>
>
> > It does not cut through insulation...
> >
> > They need to be stripped just enough to go into the connector. It
> > might also be a good idea to twist the bare strands together to
> > avoid stray bits causing a short.
> >
> > ==Rich, KE4GNK
> >
> > On Fri, 7 Mar 2003 16:10:54 -0500, "lostbowyer"
> <***@lostbowyer.com>
> > wrote :
> >
> > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> > >
> > >
> > > MessageThey are self piercing
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: dalsemi weather
> > > To: ***@dalsemi.com
> > > Sent: Friday, March 07, 2003 3:47 PM
> > > Subject: [weather] AAG rain gauge conversion kit
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > Maybe a daft question but I'm about to do my rain gauge
> > > conversion
> with
> > the AAG kit and it is suppled with 4 connectors for the wire, I've
> > never seen these before, do I strip the wires first or just push
> > them in and the connector will pierce through to the wire when you
> > puch the
>
> > middle in.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Keith
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Weather mailing list
> > ***@dalsemi.com
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
r***@knology.net
2003-04-28 21:00:46 UTC
Permalink
Rule of thumb: 1000 circular mils per amp....

you also need to consider length of wire. Best bet is use the biggest
multistrand wire you can fit into the holes on the board.

--Rich (overbuilds most things)

On Mon, 28 Apr 2003 16:34:37 -0400, Steve Prior <***@geekster.com>
wrote :

> I'm looking to wire the power for an LCD display which
> requires .5A @ 12V - can anyone tell me what wire size I need
> to use?
>
> Thanks
> Steve
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
H***@aol.com
2003-04-28 21:00:12 UTC
Permalink
In a message dated 4/28/2003 4:47:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
***@geekster.com writes:


> I'm looking to wire the power for an LCD display which
> requires .5A @ 12V - can anyone tell me what wire size I need
> to use?
>

It depends on how far you're going and how much voltage you can afford to
drop in the wire. If you're staying within any reasonable size wire wrap
board, even #30 wire wrap wire is probably okay.œA isn't really all that
much; even if you're going several yards, #22 or so is probably fine, even
#26 phone wire would handle it okay.

Rather than guessing, let's do the math. Presuming your display will probably
tolerate ±10%, and your supply is really 12V, we can afford to drop about a
volt in the wire (I prefer to be a bit conservative). Remember that there's a
drop both going and coming, so count the total length of both power and
ground wire. At œA and allowing for œV drop in each wire, we can go a number
of feet which produces 1 ohm. #30 is listed in the wire table I'm using as
105 ohms per 1000', so that would work out to about 10'. #26 is listed as 42
ohms per 1000', so about 24' there. #20 is 10 ohms per 1000', so now you can
go about 100'. And if you want a really "adequate" wire, #0000 wire is 50
milliohms por 1000', so is good for around 20,000'! I'm guessing you don't
need quite that far, though.....

Steve Hendrix
Steve Prior
2003-04-29 00:36:43 UTC
Permalink
Thanks (both of you) for the help!

Steve

***@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 4/28/2003 4:47:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> ***@geekster.com writes:
>
>
>> I'm looking to wire the power for an LCD display which
>> requires .5A @ 12V - can anyone tell me what wire size I need
>> to use?
>
>
>
> It depends on how far you're going and how much voltage you can afford
> to drop in the wire. If you're staying within any reasonable size wire
> wrap board, even #30 wire wrap wire is probably okay.½A isn't really all
> that much; even if you're going several yards, #22 or so is probably
> fine, even #26 phone wire would handle it okay.
>
> Rather than guessing, let's do the math. Presuming your display will
> probably tolerate ±10%, and your supply is really 12V, we can afford to
> drop about a volt in the wire (I prefer to be a bit conservative).
> Remember that there's a drop both going and coming, so count the total
> length of both power and ground wire. At ½A and allowing for ½V drop in
> each wire, we can go a number of feet which produces 1 ohm. #30 is
> listed in the wire table I'm using as 105 ohms per 1000', so that would
> work out to about 10'. #26 is listed as 42 ohms per 1000', so about 24'
> there. #20 is 10 ohms per 1000', so now you can go about 100'. And if
> you want a really "adequate" wire, #0000 wire is 50 milliohms por 1000',
> so is good for around 20,000'! I'm guessing you don't need quite that
> far, though.....
>
> Steve Hendrix
r***@knology.net
2003-05-25 19:25:07 UTC
Permalink
What the hub buys you is the ability to isolate runs of cable from each
other if your one-wire setup is in a 'star' configuration. Some have found
that running one-wire sensors in other than a single line of cable causes
ringing, bad reflections, and mismatches when the sensors are read, and
causes vewry weird things to happen because of signals literally 'bouncing'
back and forth and cancelling each other out.

The hub allows you to connect multiple sensors in a single line just like
before, but allows software to switch the data signals to each sensor group
on and off as it reads them. It also makes 5 and 12 volt power
distribution much simpler.

My example may be sort of typical:

The hub is located in a wiring closet in the basement of the house. The
computer is currently 30 feet away in my office. It has the adapter and
uses Arnie's software. It has a honking big Radio Shack 12volt 1 amp wall
wart providing power to it and the attached devices.

The barometer is directly connected to the hub in the same closet on one
port. Not more than 1 foot of wire. It needs 12v to operate

The V2 wind instrument and a solar sensor is off another port, 55 feet up
the side of the house, with a total cable run of about 80 feet.

My raingage and humidity sensor is in a small shelter device in the back
yard, about 10 feet above ground on a garden structure, connected to yet
another port with about 60 feet of wire. The humidity sensor requires 12v
DC to operate, and the enclosure also includes a small 12v fan to assure
the air does not get overheated by the sun. Next project is a simple fan
speed controller board that turns it on only when sun is out.

There is a lightning sensor on the side of the house at about 30 from the
hub on yet another port.

I plan a string or two of temperature and humidity sensors inside the house
but have no idea where and how long that string will be.

When I tried to hook up all this in a star setup without a hub, I got the
typical sensor and microlan errors, and it was basically unusable. The hub
switches the legs around so that the computer and adapter basically see
only one run of wire to talk to, thus eliminating the signal problems.

In many cases, the hub is the most cost-effective way to wire these systems
if they are 'scattered' all over the place. It also makes it easy to use
standard CAT-5 internet wiring and patch panels. All my sensors are wired
to a Leviton structured wiring patch panel in the wiring closet, and
interconnects to the hub are via standard patch cables. Cuts the clutter
considerably.

There has also been some discussion on the group about using the hub with
Chris Fox's 'link' device to reduce RFI caused by the one-wire signals from
the current adapter having lots of 'sharp' edges. I have not gotten that
far yet.

Others may chime in at any time. SO far, the hub was a great improvement
over trying to get a random 'star' configuration to work at all.

--Rich, KE4GNK

On Sun, 25 May 2003 11:00:57 -0700 (PDT), Gregory Hughes
<***@yahoo.com> wrote :

> I have been using a one-wire weather setup for over 2
> years and never new how or why a person would need a
> hub. Can someone explain to me the function / use/
> benefits of a hub. Also does it simply plug into a
> Ds9097U and then all of your runs plug into the hub or
> is it designed to have one device per plug? TIA for
> the information.
>
>
> --- Richard Mulvey <***@mulveyfamily.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi All:
> >
> > Just a quick review of the AAG hub and humidity
> > sensors:
-----------------------------------snip------------------------------
r***@knology.net
2003-05-29 22:34:59 UTC
Permalink
Its not a problem putting 6-position connectors on the cable...
Just use the pair that is most tightly twisted for data--usually the white-
blue pair.

There is a version of CAT-5 cable that is rated for outdoor use, it can be
found at Home Depot or other home stores (sometimes).

If you cant find that, shield the cable vrom sunlight and it will be find.
Run it in conduit or something opaque.


On Thu, 29 May 2003 18:10:09 -0400, "Chris Kaczor" <***@kaczorzoo.net>
wrote :

> I just received my 1-wire weather station from AAG and I'm trying to
> figure out what cable I need to get in order to mount the weather
> station on my roof - I'm getting confused between the different cable
> and connectors.
>
> Based on what I've seen the recommendation is to use category 5 network
> cable. That seems okay but most category 5 I've ever seen has an RJ45
> connector and it looks like the weather station only accepts RJ11
> connectors.
>
> Is it okay if I get category 5 cable, cut off the connections, and crimp
> on new RJ11 connectors? It seems that as long as I get the wires on the
> center pins and make sure the wires are straight and not crossed-over.
>
> Also - will that stand up well to New England weather? I'm planning to
> mount the weather station on our chimney and route the wires down
> through the chimney. Since we've switched over to gas the chimney is
> doing absolutely nothing. =)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris Kaczor
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
r***@knology.net
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
I've seen that weird behaviour, but for the life of me I can't remember if
I had a way around it. The viewer does weird things with the switches...I
think it's NORMAL behaviour.

Try plugging a known device into the UNSWITCHED port and see if that keeps
the devices showing.

I do know Arnie's software (which I run) is just fine with it acting like
that. His start-up process first finds and identifies the switches, then
tests each switch leg for devices to build a network list in the file.

It may be an unterminated branch problem or something like that. I tested
all the ones I built by sequentioally plugging a known device into each
switched port and testing to be sure that known device appeared and
disappeared as I manually switched ports. If a Hub did that, it worked
fine in the real world. I know I left the viewer 'switch window' I was
working with up on the desktop whilst I tested the hub.

I bet you had as much fun as I did soldering in the tiny 3 terminal diodes
on the backside of the board! BTW, if you drop one, a magnet is about the
only way to find it--their leads will stick to a magnet. (I dropped 2 of
them on a dark grey carpet one time....)

--Rich

On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 15:23:35 -0800, Chris Bell <***@junknet.com> wrote :

> Hi,
> I have finally got around to building my first hub kit, and
> have what I think is a problem with it. Hooking it up to a 9097u, and
> using the TMEX iButton viewer version "3.21Beta" under win98se.
>
> I can see all three couplers, and the 9097u adapter. If I close any
> of the switches (main or aux) on any of the three couplers the whole
> net dissapears. (If I select a main port, the LED does light up.)
> The really strange part is that if I have something plugged into that
> port, it does show up, and works fine!
>
> Is this some strange quirk of the viewer to narrow it's range to the
> new segment, ignoring everything else? Than how do you reset it back
> to the full view, so you can open the switch back up? If I pull the
> power supply, they all reset back to open, and everything comes back
> (except the devices on the downstream ports of course).
>
> Any idea where to start looking (if I am understanding correctly that
> it should not work that way!)?
>
> Thanks!
> Chris.
> ***@junknet.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
r***@knology.net
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
If you are using the temperature sensor in the wind vane, there is not much
you can do.

Many folk on this list have gone to using a separate temp sensor located in
a variety of commercial or home-made pagoda or other enclosures. Browse
the archive for some of the ideas.

My system uses a set of parts salvaged from metal lawn lights, a
temperature/humidity board from Jim Jennings, and a small fan to move air
through it and reduce heating effects. No pictures as yet, unfortunately.
The basic idea was to use one light base, several sections to form the
louvers, and two solid top caps to keep the rain off. I used a big drill
bit in a drill press to mill the posts down to a suitable height and used
threaded rod and wing nuts to hold the sections together. The sensor board
is mounted inside, with a fibreglass window screen cylinder glued inside
the louvers to keep bugs out. I'm working on a solar-power rig to run the
circulator fan at present.

Others have used platic bowls, sheet aluminum, or commercial pagodas for
the same purpose.

The sensor in the wind vane does give you a measure of solar intensity
during the day and/or radiation cooling effects at night, so its not all
that bad. Just not too useful for accurate outside air temps.

--Rich, KE4GNK

On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:00:00 -0400, "The Loflin's" <***@gmpexpress.net>
wrote :

> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>
> Is there a pagoda modification that can be done to the station? When the
sun is shining on my station the temp reads ~10 degrees higher than what it
should be.
>
> Or is there something else I could do to compensate for the sun effect?
>
> Regards,
> Scott
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release Date: 4/13/2004
>
The Loflin's
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Thank you very much for some great ideas Rich. Time to hit the garage.

Cheers!
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: <***@knology.net>
To: <***@dalsemi.com>
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: [weather] Pagoda question


> If you are using the temperature sensor in the wind vane, there is not
much
> you can do.
>
> Many folk on this list have gone to using a separate temp sensor located
in
> a variety of commercial or home-made pagoda or other enclosures. Browse
> the archive for some of the ideas.
>
> My system uses a set of parts salvaged from metal lawn lights, a
> temperature/humidity board from Jim Jennings, and a small fan to move air
> through it and reduce heating effects. No pictures as yet, unfortunately.
> The basic idea was to use one light base, several sections to form the
> louvers, and two solid top caps to keep the rain off. I used a big drill
> bit in a drill press to mill the posts down to a suitable height and used
> threaded rod and wing nuts to hold the sections together. The sensor
board
> is mounted inside, with a fibreglass window screen cylinder glued inside
> the louvers to keep bugs out. I'm working on a solar-power rig to run the
> circulator fan at present.
>
> Others have used platic bowls, sheet aluminum, or commercial pagodas for
> the same purpose.
>
> The sensor in the wind vane does give you a measure of solar intensity
> during the day and/or radiation cooling effects at night, so its not all
> that bad. Just not too useful for accurate outside air temps.
>
> --Rich, KE4GNK
>
> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:00:00 -0400, "The Loflin's"
<***@gmpexpress.net>
> wrote :
>
> > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >
> >
> > Is there a pagoda modification that can be done to the station? When the
> sun is shining on my station the temp reads ~10 degrees higher than what
it
> should be.
> >
> > Or is there something else I could do to compensate for the sun effect?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Scott
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release Date: 4/13/2004
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release Date: 4/13/2004
Gregory Hughes
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Scott,
Here are some pictures of my temp pagoda I built out
of plastic bowls I bought at Wal Mart. I used
threadall(a long bolt with threads from one end to the
other). I bought some plastic tubing that would slide
over the threadall for the spacing between th bowls.
All the bowls have a hole in then except for the top
and bottom bowl. My humidity and temperature sensors
are center mounted in the holes in the bowls. This
setup has worked perfectly for over 2 years. Holler
if you have any questions.

http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp1.jpg
http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp2.jpg
http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp3.jpg
http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp4.jpg


- The Loflin's <***@gmpexpress.net> wrote:
> Thank you very much for some great ideas Rich. Time
> to hit the garage.
>
> Cheers!
> Scott
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <***@knology.net>
> To: <***@dalsemi.com>
> Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 12:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [weather] Pagoda question
>
>
> > If you are using the temperature sensor in the
> wind vane, there is not
> much
> > you can do.
> >
> > Many folk on this list have gone to using a
> separate temp sensor located
> in
> > a variety of commercial or home-made pagoda or
> other enclosures. Browse
> > the archive for some of the ideas.
> >
> > My system uses a set of parts salvaged from metal
> lawn lights, a
> > temperature/humidity board from Jim Jennings, and
> a small fan to move air
> > through it and reduce heating effects. No
> pictures as yet, unfortunately.
> > The basic idea was to use one light base, several
> sections to form the
> > louvers, and two solid top caps to keep the rain
> off. I used a big drill
> > bit in a drill press to mill the posts down to a
> suitable height and used
> > threaded rod and wing nuts to hold the sections
> together. The sensor
> board
> > is mounted inside, with a fibreglass window screen
> cylinder glued inside
> > the louvers to keep bugs out. I'm working on a
> solar-power rig to run the
> > circulator fan at present.
> >
> > Others have used platic bowls, sheet aluminum, or
> commercial pagodas for
> > the same purpose.
> >
> > The sensor in the wind vane does give you a
> measure of solar intensity
> > during the day and/or radiation cooling effects at
> night, so its not all
> > that bad. Just not too useful for accurate
> outside air temps.
> >
> > --Rich, KE4GNK
> >
> > On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:00:00 -0400, "The Loflin's"
> <***@gmpexpress.net>
> > wrote :
> >
> > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> > >
> > >
> > > Is there a pagoda modification that can be done
> to the station? When the
> > sun is shining on my station the temp reads ~10
> degrees higher than what
> it
> > should be.
> > >
> > > Or is there something else I could do to
> compensate for the sun effect?
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Scott
> > >
> > >
> > > ---
> > > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > > Checked by AVG anti-virus system
> (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > > Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release
> Date: 4/13/2004
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Weather mailing list
> > ***@dalsemi.com
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list
> archives, go to:
> > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system
> (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release
> Date: 4/13/2004
>
> _______________________________________________
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> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list
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__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
Charles Gallo
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
I did something VERY similar out of white plastic flower pots, and
two
saucers for the same - which had 3 advantages

1) 3 drain (read vent) holes in the bottom of each
2) 2 holes the fit all thread perfectly
3)COST - they were something like 60 cents each!

The NICE thing about the way they were molded was that if you rotated
them 180 degs around the all thread, the holes in each layer don't
line up on the bottoms, so no water gets in, but the air still
convects



On 4/16/2004 Gregory Hughes wrote:

> Scott,
> Here are some pictures of my temp pagoda I built out
> of plastic bowls I bought at Wal Mart. I used
> threadall(a long bolt with threads from one end to the
> other). I bought some plastic tubing that would slide
> over the threadall for the spacing between th bowls.
> All the bowls have a hole in then except for the top
> and bottom bowl. My humidity and temperature sensors
> are center mounted in the holes in the bowls. This
> setup has worked perfectly for over 2 years. Holler
> if you have any questions.

> http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp1.jpg
> http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp2.jpg
> http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp3.jpg
> http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp4.jpg


> - The Loflin's <***@gmpexpress.net> wrote:
>> Thank you very much for some great ideas Rich. Time
>> to hit the garage.
>>
>> Cheers!
>> Scott
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <***@knology.net>
>> To: <***@dalsemi.com>
>> Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 12:42 PM
>> Subject: Re: [weather] Pagoda question
>>
>>
>> > If you are using the temperature sensor in the
>> wind vane, there is not
>> much
>> > you can do.
>> >
>> > Many folk on this list have gone to using a
>> separate temp sensor located
>> in
>> > a variety of commercial or home-made pagoda or
>> other enclosures. Browse
>> > the archive for some of the ideas.
>> >
>> > My system uses a set of parts salvaged from metal
>> lawn lights, a
>> > temperature/humidity board from Jim Jennings, and
>> a small fan to move air
>> > through it and reduce heating effects. No
>> pictures as yet, unfortunately.
>> > The basic idea was to use one light base, several
>> sections to form the
>> > louvers, and two solid top caps to keep the rain
>> off. I used a big drill
>> > bit in a drill press to mill the posts down to a
>> suitable height and used
>> > threaded rod and wing nuts to hold the sections
>> together. The sensor
>> board
>> > is mounted inside, with a fibreglass window screen
>> cylinder glued inside
>> > the louvers to keep bugs out. I'm working on a
>> solar-power rig to run the
>> > circulator fan at present.
>> >
>> > Others have used platic bowls, sheet aluminum, or
>> commercial pagodas for
>> > the same purpose.
>> >
>> > The sensor in the wind vane does give you a
>> measure of solar intensity
>> > during the day and/or radiation cooling effects at
>> night, so its not all
>> > that bad. Just not too useful for accurate
>> outside air temps.
>> >
>> > --Rich, KE4GNK
>> >
>> > On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:00:00 -0400, "The Loflin's"
>> <***@gmpexpress.net>
>> > wrote :
>> >
>> > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Is there a pagoda modification that can be done
>> to the station? When the
>> > sun is shining on my station the temp reads ~10
>> degrees higher than what
>> it
>> > should be.
>> > >
>> > > Or is there something else I could do to
>> compensate for the sun effect?
>> > >
>> > > Regards,
>> > > Scott
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ---
>> > > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
>> > > Checked by AVG anti-virus system
>> (http://www.grisoft.com).
>> > > Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release
>> Date: 4/13/2004
>> > >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Weather mailing list
>> > ***@dalsemi.com
>> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list
>> archives, go to:
>> > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>>
>>
>> ---
>> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
>> Checked by AVG anti-virus system
>> (http://www.grisoft.com).
>> Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release
>> Date: 4/13/2004
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Weather mailing list
>> ***@dalsemi.com
>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list
>> archives, go to:
>> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather





> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html


- --
73
KC2IXE

For the Children - RKBA!

Be wary of strong drink.
It can make you shoot at tax collectors -- and miss.
--R.A.H.
Tim Bitson
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
One other option is to buy one of those multi-tiered decorative yard
lights ("malibu light") and paint it white. I used a metal one and cut
the spacers between the tiers to shorten it a bit. It works great.
Cost was about $20. I can post pictures if anyone's interested.

tim


On Apr 17, 2004, at 5:10 AM, Charles Gallo wrote:

> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
> Hash: SHA1
>
> I did something VERY similar out of white plastic flower pots, and
> two
> saucers for the same - which had 3 advantages
>
> 1) 3 drain (read vent) holes in the bottom of each
> 2) 2 holes the fit all thread perfectly
> 3)COST - they were something like 60 cents each!
>
> The NICE thing about the way they were molded was that if you rotated
> them 180 degs around the all thread, the holes in each layer don't
> line up on the bottoms, so no water gets in, but the air still
> convects
>
>
>
> On 4/16/2004 Gregory Hughes wrote:
>
>> Scott,
>> Here are some pictures of my temp pagoda I built out
>> of plastic bowls I bought at Wal Mart. I used
>> threadall(a long bolt with threads from one end to the
>> other). I bought some plastic tubing that would slide
>> over the threadall for the spacing between th bowls.
>> All the bowls have a hole in then except for the top
>> and bottom bowl. My humidity and temperature sensors
>> are center mounted in the holes in the bowls. This
>> setup has worked perfectly for over 2 years. Holler
>> if you have any questions.
>
>> http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp1.jpg
>> http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp2.jpg
>> http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp3.jpg
>> http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp4.jpg
>
>
>> - The Loflin's <***@gmpexpress.net> wrote:
>>> Thank you very much for some great ideas Rich. Time
>>> to hit the garage.
>>>
>>> Cheers!
>>> Scott
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: <***@knology.net>
>>> To: <***@dalsemi.com>
>>> Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 12:42 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [weather] Pagoda question
>>>
>>>
>>>> If you are using the temperature sensor in the
>>> wind vane, there is not
>>> much
>>>> you can do.
>>>>
>>>> Many folk on this list have gone to using a
>>> separate temp sensor located
>>> in
>>>> a variety of commercial or home-made pagoda or
>>> other enclosures. Browse
>>>> the archive for some of the ideas.
>>>>
>>>> My system uses a set of parts salvaged from metal
>>> lawn lights, a
>>>> temperature/humidity board from Jim Jennings, and
>>> a small fan to move air
>>>> through it and reduce heating effects. No
>>> pictures as yet, unfortunately.
>>>> The basic idea was to use one light base, several
>>> sections to form the
>>>> louvers, and two solid top caps to keep the rain
>>> off. I used a big drill
>>>> bit in a drill press to mill the posts down to a
>>> suitable height and used
>>>> threaded rod and wing nuts to hold the sections
>>> together. The sensor
>>> board
>>>> is mounted inside, with a fibreglass window screen
>>> cylinder glued inside
>>>> the louvers to keep bugs out. I'm working on a
>>> solar-power rig to run the
>>>> circulator fan at present.
>>>>
>>>> Others have used platic bowls, sheet aluminum, or
>>> commercial pagodas for
>>>> the same purpose.
>>>>
>>>> The sensor in the wind vane does give you a
>>> measure of solar intensity
>>>> during the day and/or radiation cooling effects at
>>> night, so its not all
>>>> that bad. Just not too useful for accurate
>>> outside air temps.
>>>>
>>>> --Rich, KE4GNK
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:00:00 -0400, "The Loflin's"
>>> <***@gmpexpress.net>
>>>> wrote :
>>>>
>>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Is there a pagoda modification that can be done
>>> to the station? When the
>>>> sun is shining on my station the temp reads ~10
>>> degrees higher than what
>>> it
>>>> should be.
>>>>>
>>>>> Or is there something else I could do to
>>> compensate for the sun effect?
>>>>>
>>>>> Regards,
>>>>> Scott
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ---
>>>>> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
>>>>> Checked by AVG anti-virus system
>>> (http://www.grisoft.com).
>>>>> Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release
>>> Date: 4/13/2004
>>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Weather mailing list
>>>> ***@dalsemi.com
>>>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list
>>> archives, go to:
>>>> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>>>
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
>>> Checked by AVG anti-virus system
>>> (http://www.grisoft.com).
>>> Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release
>>> Date: 4/13/2004
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Weather mailing list
>>> ***@dalsemi.com
>>> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list
>>> archives, go to:
>>> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
>
>
>> __________________________________
>> Do you Yahoo!?
>> Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
>> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
>
>
> - --
> 73
> KC2IXE
>
> For the Children - RKBA!
>
> Be wary of strong drink.
> It can make you shoot at tax collectors -- and miss.
> --R.A.H.
>
> -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
> Version: PGP 6.5i
>
> iQA/AwUBQIEew3rFNodJLHOCEQL28wCdHL0ptpvQWukSaSjzFf/pmy9tRtoAoNcX
> R0FN/sdOLBkcuAKR77mhfiLb
> =17KB
> -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
Tim Gahagan
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Great Tim's think alike.

I did the same, with a plastic malibu light

http://tim.gahagan.org/Weather/Photos/07.jpg

At 08:57 AM 4/17/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>One other option is to buy one of those multi-tiered decorative yard
>lights ("malibu light") and paint it white. I used a metal one and cut the
>spacers between the tiers to shorten it a bit. It works great. Cost was
>about $20. I can post pictures if anyone's interested.
>
>tim
>
>
>On Apr 17, 2004, at 5:10 AM, Charles Gallo wrote:
>
>>-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
>>Hash: SHA1
>>
>>I did something VERY similar out of white plastic flower pots, and
>>two
>>saucers for the same - which had 3 advantages
>>
>>1) 3 drain (read vent) holes in the bottom of each
>>2) 2 holes the fit all thread perfectly
>>3)COST - they were something like 60 cents each!
>>
>>The NICE thing about the way they were molded was that if you rotated
>>them 180 degs around the all thread, the holes in each layer don't
>>line up on the bottoms, so no water gets in, but the air still
>>convects
>>
>>
>>
>>On 4/16/2004 Gregory Hughes wrote:
>>
>>>Scott,
>>> Here are some pictures of my temp pagoda I built out
>>>of plastic bowls I bought at Wal Mart. I used
>>>threadall(a long bolt with threads from one end to the
>>>other). I bought some plastic tubing that would slide
>>>over the threadall for the spacing between th bowls.
>>>All the bowls have a hole in then except for the top
>>>and bottom bowl. My humidity and temperature sensors
>>>are center mounted in the holes in the bowls. This
>>>setup has worked perfectly for over 2 years. Holler
>>>if you have any questions.
>>
>>>http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp1.jpg
>>>http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp2.jpg
>>>http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp3.jpg
>>>http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp4.jpg
>>
>>
>>>- The Loflin's <***@gmpexpress.net> wrote:
>>>>Thank you very much for some great ideas Rich. Time
>>>>to hit the garage.
>>>>
>>>>Cheers!
>>>>Scott
>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>From: <***@knology.net>
>>>>To: <***@dalsemi.com>
>>>>Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 12:42 PM
>>>>Subject: Re: [weather] Pagoda question
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>If you are using the temperature sensor in the
>>>>wind vane, there is not
>>>>much
>>>>>you can do.
>>>>>
>>>>>Many folk on this list have gone to using a
>>>>separate temp sensor located
>>>>in
>>>>>a variety of commercial or home-made pagoda or
>>>>other enclosures. Browse
>>>>>the archive for some of the ideas.
>>>>>
>>>>>My system uses a set of parts salvaged from metal
>>>>lawn lights, a
>>>>>temperature/humidity board from Jim Jennings, and
>>>>a small fan to move air
>>>>>through it and reduce heating effects. No
>>>>pictures as yet, unfortunately.
>>>>>The basic idea was to use one light base, several
>>>>sections to form the
>>>>>louvers, and two solid top caps to keep the rain
>>>>off. I used a big drill
>>>>>bit in a drill press to mill the posts down to a
>>>>suitable height and used
>>>>>threaded rod and wing nuts to hold the sections
>>>>together. The sensor
>>>>board
>>>>>is mounted inside, with a fibreglass window screen
>>>>cylinder glued inside
>>>>>the louvers to keep bugs out. I'm working on a
>>>>solar-power rig to run the
>>>>>circulator fan at present.
>>>>>
>>>>>Others have used platic bowls, sheet aluminum, or
>>>>commercial pagodas for
>>>>>the same purpose.
>>>>>
>>>>>The sensor in the wind vane does give you a
>>>>measure of solar intensity
>>>>>during the day and/or radiation cooling effects at
>>>>night, so its not all
>>>>>that bad. Just not too useful for accurate
>>>>outside air temps.
>>>>>
>>>>>--Rich, KE4GNK
>>>>>
>>>>>On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:00:00 -0400, "The Loflin's"
>>>><***@gmpexpress.net>
>>>>>wrote :
>>>>>
>>>>>>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Is there a pagoda modification that can be done
>>>>to the station? When the
>>>>>sun is shining on my station the temp reads ~10
>>>>degrees higher than what
>>>>it
>>>>>should be.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Or is there something else I could do to
>>>>compensate for the sun effect?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Regards,
>>>>>>Scott
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>---
>>>>>>Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
>>>>>>Checked by AVG anti-virus system
>>>>(http://www.grisoft.com).
>>>>>>Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release
>>>>Date: 4/13/2004
>>>>>_______________________________________________
>>>>>Weather mailing list
>>>>>***@dalsemi.com
>>>>>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list
>>>>archives, go to:
>>>>>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>---
>>>>Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
>>>>Checked by AVG anti-virus system
>>>>(http://www.grisoft.com).
>>>>Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release
>>>>Date: 4/13/2004
>>>>
>>>>_______________________________________________
>>>>Weather mailing list
>>>>***@dalsemi.com
>>>>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list
>>>>archives, go to:
>>>>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>__________________________________
>>>Do you Yahoo!?
>>>Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
>>>http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
>>
>>
>>- --
>>73
>>KC2IXE
>>
>>For the Children - RKBA!
>>
>>Be wary of strong drink.
>> It can make you shoot at tax collectors -- and miss.
>> --R.A.H.
>>
>>-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
>>Version: PGP 6.5i
>>
>>iQA/AwUBQIEew3rFNodJLHOCEQL28wCdHL0ptpvQWukSaSjzFf/pmy9tRtoAoNcX
>>R0FN/sdOLBkcuAKR77mhfiLb
>>=17KB
>>-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>Weather mailing list
>>***@dalsemi.com
>>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
>>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>_______________________________________________
>Weather mailing list
>***@dalsemi.com
>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather


T. Patrick Gahagan
President
GGI Technologies
E-Mail: ***@ggi.net Voice : (512)930-9798 Ext. 3272
PGP Public Key available

Technology plays no favorites -- it is the slave of anyone who chooses to
master it.
Nafis, Christopher A (Research)
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Here's a link to my Flower Pot Radiation Shield (
http://home.nycap.rr.com/nafis/pagoda/
<http://home.nycap.rr.com/nafis/pagoda/> ).
There is a nice description of the thermal problem by Russ Chadwick at
http://www.wxqa.com/shields.html <http://www.wxqa.com/shields.html> . There
are several designs.

-----Original Message-----
From: The Loflin's [mailto:***@gmpexpress.net]
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 12:00 PM
To: ***@dalsemi.com
Subject: [weather] Pagoda question


Is there a pagoda modification that can be done to the station? When the sun
is shining on my station the temp reads ~10 degrees higher than what it
should be.

Or is there something else I could do to compensate for the sun effect?

Regards,
Scott


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system ( http://www.grisoft.com
<http://www.grisoft.com> ).
Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release Date: 4/13/2004
David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Very nice, Gregory. And much like mine too. I like your mounting system. I
put holes in all of mine except the top and the bottom, as you did and then
was surprised later to learn from the "official" pagoda design sights that
the upper ones should not have a hole in them. The idea is to have air
cooled layers above the measuring device, not a chimney affect.

Sorry, I have lost the link to the site.

David

weather-***@dalsemi.com wrote on 16.04.2004 23:17:38:

> Scott,
> Here are some pictures of my temp pagoda I built out
> of plastic bowls I bought at Wal Mart. I used
> threadall(a long bolt with threads from one end to the
> other). I bought some plastic tubing that would slide
> over the threadall for the spacing between th bowls.
> All the bowls have a hole in then except for the top
> and bottom bowl. My humidity and temperature sensors
> are center mounted in the holes in the bowls. This
> setup has worked perfectly for over 2 years. Holler
> if you have any questions.
>
> http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp1.jpg
> http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp2.jpg
> http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp3.jpg
> http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp4.jpg
>
>
> - The Loflin's <***@gmpexpress.net> wrote:
> > Thank you very much for some great ideas Rich. Time
> > to hit the garage.
> >
> > Cheers!
> > Scott
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <***@knology.net>
> > To: <***@dalsemi.com>
> > Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 12:42 PM
> > Subject: Re: [weather] Pagoda question
> >
> >
> > > If you are using the temperature sensor in the
> > wind vane, there is not
> > much
> > > you can do.
> > >
> > > Many folk on this list have gone to using a
> > separate temp sensor located
> > in
> > > a variety of commercial or home-made pagoda or
> > other enclosures. Browse
> > > the archive for some of the ideas.
> > >
> > > My system uses a set of parts salvaged from metal
> > lawn lights, a
> > > temperature/humidity board from Jim Jennings, and
> > a small fan to move air
> > > through it and reduce heating effects. No
> > pictures as yet, unfortunately.
> > > The basic idea was to use one light base, several
> > sections to form the
> > > louvers, and two solid top caps to keep the rain
> > off. I used a big drill
> > > bit in a drill press to mill the posts down to a
> > suitable height and used
> > > threaded rod and wing nuts to hold the sections
> > together. The sensor
> > board
> > > is mounted inside, with a fibreglass window screen
> > cylinder glued inside
> > > the louvers to keep bugs out. I'm working on a
> > solar-power rig to run the
> > > circulator fan at present.
> > >
> > > Others have used platic bowls, sheet aluminum, or
> > commercial pagodas for
> > > the same purpose.
> > >
> > > The sensor in the wind vane does give you a
> > measure of solar intensity
> > > during the day and/or radiation cooling effects at
> > night, so its not all
> > > that bad. Just not too useful for accurate
> > outside air temps.
> > >
> > > --Rich, KE4GNK
> > >
> > > On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:00:00 -0400, "The Loflin's"
> > <***@gmpexpress.net>
> > > wrote :
> > >
> > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Is there a pagoda modification that can be done
> > to the station? When the
> > > sun is shining on my station the temp reads ~10
> > degrees higher than what
> > it
> > > should be.
> > > >
> > > > Or is there something else I could do to
> > compensate for the sun effect?
> > > >
> > > > Regards,
> > > > Scott
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ---
> > > > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > > > Checked by AVG anti-virus system
> > (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > > > Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release
> > Date: 4/13/2004
> > > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Weather mailing list
> > > ***@dalsemi.com
> > > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list
> > archives, go to:
> > > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system
> > (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release
> > Date: 4/13/2004
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Weather mailing list
> > ***@dalsemi.com
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list
> > archives, go to:
> > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
> _______________________________________________
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> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
Doug Brance
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Tthe reason my WS is still on my bench is the pagoda, or lack of same.
What is the consensus regarding chimney effect?
First how can any passive device collect cool air above the sensor? I've
been playing with several designs that are basically long, vertical,
insulated, tubes with sensors near the bottom. It seems to me that if
the outside surface of the top of the tube, well above the sensors, is
dark it will, when sunny, heat the top causing ambient air to enter the
bottom. But the post below suggests that the "official" site says no
chimney. What say the group?

Thanks,

Doug

I have questions about

David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM wrote:

>
>
>Very nice, Gregory. And much like mine too. I like your mounting system. I
>put holes in all of mine except the top and the bottom, as you did and then
>was surprised later to learn from the "official" pagoda design sights that
>the upper ones should not have a hole in them. The idea is to have air
>cooled layers above the measuring device, not a chimney affect.
>
>Sorry, I have lost the link to the site.
>
>David
>
>weather-***@dalsemi.com wrote on 16.04.2004 23:17:38:
>
>
>
>>Scott,
>> Here are some pictures of my temp pagoda I built out
>>of plastic bowls I bought at Wal Mart. I used
>>threadall(a long bolt with threads from one end to the
>>other). I bought some plastic tubing that would slide
>>over the threadall for the spacing between th bowls.
>>All the bowls have a hole in then except for the top
>>and bottom bowl. My humidity and temperature sensors
>>are center mounted in the holes in the bowls. This
>>setup has worked perfectly for over 2 years. Holler
>>if you have any questions.
>>
>>http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp1.jpg
>>http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp2.jpg
>>http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp3.jpg
>>http://ruppworld.com/various_pics/temp4.jpg
>>
>>
>>- The Loflin's <***@gmpexpress.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Thank you very much for some great ideas Rich. Time
>>>to hit the garage.
>>>
>>>Cheers!
>>>Scott
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: <***@knology.net>
>>>To: <***@dalsemi.com>
>>>Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 12:42 PM
>>>Subject: Re: [weather] Pagoda question
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>If you are using the temperature sensor in the
>>>>
>>>>
>>>wind vane, there is not
>>>much
>>>
>>>
>>>>you can do.
>>>>
>>>>Many folk on this list have gone to using a
>>>>
>>>>
>>>separate temp sensor located
>>>in
>>>
>>>
>>>>a variety of commercial or home-made pagoda or
>>>>
>>>>
>>>other enclosures. Browse
>>>
>>>
>>>>the archive for some of the ideas.
>>>>
>>>>My system uses a set of parts salvaged from metal
>>>>
>>>>
>>>lawn lights, a
>>>
>>>
>>>>temperature/humidity board from Jim Jennings, and
>>>>
>>>>
>>>a small fan to move air
>>>
>>>
>>>>through it and reduce heating effects. No
>>>>
>>>>
>>>pictures as yet, unfortunately.
>>>
>>>
>>>>The basic idea was to use one light base, several
>>>>
>>>>
>>>sections to form the
>>>
>>>
>>>>louvers, and two solid top caps to keep the rain
>>>>
>>>>
>>>off. I used a big drill
>>>
>>>
>>>>bit in a drill press to mill the posts down to a
>>>>
>>>>
>>>suitable height and used
>>>
>>>
>>>>threaded rod and wing nuts to hold the sections
>>>>
>>>>
>>>together. The sensor
>>>board
>>>
>>>
>>>>is mounted inside, with a fibreglass window screen
>>>>
>>>>
>>>cylinder glued inside
>>>
>>>
>>>>the louvers to keep bugs out. I'm working on a
>>>>
>>>>
>>>solar-power rig to run the
>>>
>>>
>>>>circulator fan at present.
>>>>
>>>>Others have used platic bowls, sheet aluminum, or
>>>>
>>>>
>>>commercial pagodas for
>>>
>>>
>>>>the same purpose.
>>>>
>>>>The sensor in the wind vane does give you a
>>>>
>>>>
>>>measure of solar intensity
>>>
>>>
>>>>during the day and/or radiation cooling effects at
>>>>
>>>>
>>>night, so its not all
>>>
>>>
>>>>that bad. Just not too useful for accurate
>>>>
>>>>
>>>outside air temps.
>>>
>>>
>>>>--Rich, KE4GNK
>>>>
>>>>On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:00:00 -0400, "The Loflin's"
>>>>
>>>>
>>><***@gmpexpress.net>
>>>
>>>
>>>>wrote :
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Is there a pagoda modification that can be done
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>to the station? When the
>>>
>>>
>>>>sun is shining on my station the temp reads ~10
>>>>
>>>>
>>>degrees higher than what
>>>it
>>>
>>>
>>>>should be.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Or is there something else I could do to
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>compensate for the sun effect?
>>>
>>>
>>>>>Regards,
>>>>>Scott
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>---
>>>>>Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
>>>>>Checked by AVG anti-virus system
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>(http://www.grisoft.com).
>>>
>>>
>>>>>Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>Date: 4/13/2004
>>>
>>>
>>>>_______________________________________________
>>>>Weather mailing list
>>>>***@dalsemi.com
>>>>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list
>>>>
>>>>
>>>archives, go to:
>>>
>>>
>>>>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>>>>
>>>>
>>>---
>>>Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
>>>Checked by AVG anti-virus system
>>>(http://www.grisoft.com).
>>>Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release
>>>Date: 4/13/2004
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>Weather mailing list
>>>***@dalsemi.com
>>>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list
>>>archives, go to:
>>>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>__________________________________
>>Do you Yahoo!?
>>Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
>>http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
>>_______________________________________________
>>Weather mailing list
>>***@dalsemi.com
>>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
>>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>>
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Weather mailing list
>***@dalsemi.com
>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
>
David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
a***@henriksens.net
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Hi David.

It seems as it 'arrived' around 3/19/2002 - maybe I messed up something
back then, and you upgraded at 7/28/2003 and got it.
Sorry I should have spotted it earlier, but I'm barely looking at these
data myself...

I'll see what I can do about it. :-)

Regards,
Arne





David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM <***@us.ibm.com>
Sent by: weather-***@dalsemi.com
19.04.2004 20:38
Please respond to weather


To: ***@dalsemi.com
cc:
Subject: [weather] Problem with Daily200x.txt
David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Just found that I must have changed versions of the software, it was the
day that I added the barometer. It also now records the data in the file
identified by the day of the readings, instead of the next day. That part I
like, Arne! Its the problem of the missing tabs that makes me cry out in
pain. I wrote a macro for my programmers editor to replace the space with a
tab and move back and down one for the columns that don't have the tabs but
it still takes a lot of watching what you are doing to get it right.

David

David Gibson - aka "David"
EI L3 Support
Portsmouth Lab - IBM Software Group
603-559-8626 T/L 335-8626
***@us.ibm.com

weather-***@dalsemi.com wrote on 19.04.2004 14:38:21:

>
>
David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Thanks, Arne, I would appreciate it. Trying to import into a spread sheet
is now a tedious process. And, yes, I did upgrade. See my previous note.

Good to hear from you again!

David

David Gibson - aka "David"
EI L3 Support
Portsmouth Lab - IBM Software Group
603-559-8626 T/L 335-8626
***@us.ibm.com

weather-***@dalsemi.com wrote on 19.04.2004 16:38:26:

>
> Hi David.
>
> It seems as it 'arrived' around 3/19/2002 - maybe I messed up
> something back then, and you upgraded at 7/28/2003 and got it.
> Sorry I should have spotted it earlier, but I'm barely looking at
> these data myself...
>
> I'll see what I can do about it. :-)
>
> Regards,
> Arne
>
>

>
> David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM <***@us.ibm.com>
> Sent by: weather-***@dalsemi.com
> 19.04.2004 20:38
> Please respond to weather
>
>
> To: ***@dalsemi.com
> cc:
> Subject: [weather] Problem with Daily200x.txt
>
>
>
> >
David Fullmer
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Doug,

==>First how can any passive device collect cool air above the sensor?

The idea is not to have the sensor track the cooled air above, but to cool
the pagoda layers above to reduce radiated heating (radiated from the
enclosure via the sun) to the sensor below. Your idea of a self circulating
air system sounds interesting. I don't think I've heard that idea before --
sure sounds like it could work! The key would be in trying to insulate the
lower section well enough I would think. And how do you keep rain & debris
out of it (or do you care about that ...maybe not)?

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com]On
Behalf Of Doug Brance
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 3:21 PM
To: ***@dalsemi.com
Subject: Re: [weather] Pagoda question


Tthe reason my WS is still on my bench is the pagoda, or lack of same.
What is the consensus regarding chimney effect?
First how can any passive device collect cool air above the sensor? I've
been playing with several designs that are basically long, vertical,
insulated, tubes with sensors near the bottom. It seems to me that if
the outside surface of the top of the tube, well above the sensors, is
dark it will, when sunny, heat the top causing ambient air to enter the
bottom. But the post below suggests that the "official" site says no
chimney. What say the group?

Thanks,

Doug
Doug Brance
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Dave

Tom Boyd describes a similar unit at:
http://sheepdogsoftware.co.uk/sc3swt.htm

A simple cover/lid that allows plenty of air to escape, but allows no
rain in, would work. I'm still curious though why an "official" site
says to avoid using a chimney.

Doug

David Fullmer wrote:

>Doug,
>
>==>First how can any passive device collect cool air above the sensor?
>
>The idea is not to have the sensor track the cooled air above, but to cool
>the pagoda layers above to reduce radiated heating (radiated from the
>enclosure via the sun) to the sensor below. Your idea of a self circulating
>air system sounds interesting. I don't think I've heard that idea before --
>sure sounds like it could work! The key would be in trying to insulate the
>lower section well enough I would think. And how do you keep rain & debris
>out of it (or do you care about that ...maybe not)?
>
>Dave
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com]On
>Behalf Of Doug Brance
>Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 3:21 PM
>To: ***@dalsemi.com
>Subject: Re: [weather] Pagoda question
>
>
>Tthe reason my WS is still on my bench is the pagoda, or lack of same.
>What is the consensus regarding chimney effect?
>First how can any passive device collect cool air above the sensor? I've
>been playing with several designs that are basically long, vertical,
>insulated, tubes with sensors near the bottom. It seems to me that if
>the outside surface of the top of the tube, well above the sensors, is
>dark it will, when sunny, heat the top causing ambient air to enter the
>bottom. But the post below suggests that the "official" site says no
>chimney. What say the group?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Doug
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Weather mailing list
>***@dalsemi.com
>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
>
Herbert E. Plett
2004-04-23 19:37:06 UTC
Permalink
David Fullmer
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Doug,

I guess I don't know either. This seems like a workable idea to me - at
least on a sunny day. I was just trying to decide if there might be some
undesirable effects under certain circumstances. Like at night - could the
tube somehow be artificially cooler than the air temperature and cause false
low readings - something like the effects we see with the OWW "sealed"
anemometer enclosure temperature readings on a clear night?

David Fullmer
Systima Technologies, Inc.
Ph: 425.672.1755
Fax: 425.487.2950

-----Original Message-----
From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com]On
Behalf Of Doug Brance
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 11:25 AM
To: ***@dalsemi.com
Subject: Re: [weather] Pagoda question


Dave

Tom Boyd describes a similar unit at:
http://sheepdogsoftware.co.uk/sc3swt.htm

A simple cover/lid that allows plenty of air to escape, but allows no
rain in, would work. I'm still curious though why an "official" site
says to avoid using a chimney.

Doug

David Fullmer wrote:

>Doug,
>
>==>First how can any passive device collect cool air above the sensor?
>
>The idea is not to have the sensor track the cooled air above, but to cool
>the pagoda layers above to reduce radiated heating (radiated from the
>enclosure via the sun) to the sensor below. Your idea of a self
circulating
>air system sounds interesting. I don't think I've heard that idea
before --
>sure sounds like it could work! The key would be in trying to insulate the
>lower section well enough I would think. And how do you keep rain & debris
>out of it (or do you care about that ...maybe not)?
>
>Dave
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com]On
>Behalf Of Doug Brance
>Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 3:21 PM
>To: ***@dalsemi.com
>Subject: Re: [weather] Pagoda question
>
>
>Tthe reason my WS is still on my bench is the pagoda, or lack of same.
>What is the consensus regarding chimney effect?
>First how can any passive device collect cool air above the sensor? I've
>been playing with several designs that are basically long, vertical,
>insulated, tubes with sensors near the bottom. It seems to me that if
>the outside surface of the top of the tube, well above the sensors, is
>dark it will, when sunny, heat the top causing ambient air to enter the
>bottom. But the post below suggests that the "official" site says no
>chimney. What say the group?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Doug
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Weather mailing list
>***@dalsemi.com
>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
>
David Lissiuk
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Doug

For a interesting paper related to the subject try:

http://www.geo.uni.lodz.pl/~icuc5/text/P_6_5.pdf

I've add this and a couple of other links to the
www.1wire.org site under the reference materials
weather, Stevenson Screens, Pagoda and other
screen forms

I'll keep adding stuff as I get time...

Hope this helps... The use of foil is very interesting...

David Lissiuk
Sr. Computer Scientist
Springbok Digitronics


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.656 / Virus Database: 421 - Release Date: 4/9/04
Doug Brance
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Thanks, Dave.

I'll go get it now & look again at www.1wire.org.

Doug

David Lissiuk wrote:

>Doug
>
> For a interesting paper related to the subject try:
>
>http://www.geo.uni.lodz.pl/~icuc5/text/P_6_5.pdf
>
>I've add this and a couple of other links to the
>www.1wire.org site under the reference materials
>weather, Stevenson Screens, Pagoda and other
>screen forms
>
>I'll keep adding stuff as I get time...
>
>Hope this helps... The use of foil is very interesting...
>
>David Lissiuk
>Sr. Computer Scientist
>Springbok Digitronics
>
>
>---
>Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>Version: 6.0.656 / Virus Database: 421 - Release Date: 4/9/04
>_______________________________________________
>Weather mailing list
>***@dalsemi.com
>To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
>http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
>
Herbert E. Plett
2004-04-24 03:45:45 UTC
Permalink
Tim and Katie
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
I did not get decent temp readings until I built my own stevenson screen -
the difference was quite marked..
Have a look at a temp graph displaying the differences
http://www.hillsrain.com/Weather_Station/Events/Events08.htm#28-02-03
More details including pics of my screen can be seen at
http://www.hillsrain.com/Default.htm
It is well worth building one and not difficult.
Cheers,
Tim
Gregory Hughes
2004-04-24 15:47:53 UTC
Permalink
Colin Larsen
2004-04-24 21:04:23 UTC
Permalink
Unless I misread the document it compared the Stevenson to
other common types of "home built" screens. I thought it
interesting that the Pagoda seemed to come out quite well.

In fact while I've been following this thread I had an idea
to combine the designs of a chimney style pagoda and a fan
ventilated enclosure. To this end I have obtained a solar
powered pagoda style light . It is made of stainless steel,
has the solar power unit on the top and has 4 sets of pagoda
fins. I intended to replace the metail fins (which are too
short) with a set of bowls or similar and use the solar
power to run a small fan at the base. This way it is
ventilated during the day, but not at night. To avoid any
sort of "wind chill" factor creeping in I am considering
using a 6 or 12 volt fan at the end of the 3 v solar power
supply. In this way I'm hoping that the fan will run just
enough to move the air in the chimney without introducing
any other errors.
One of the first things I have found is that stailess steel
body appears to heat up in the sun. I imagined its relective
surface would prevent that. So I will probably paint the
whole thing white to start with.

Well thats the theory anyway. I'll photgraph and document
the project as I go and publish some results.

Cheers
Colin.

----- Original Message Follows -----
> But Tim, comparing a sensor in a screen to one that is
> not protected at all? That doesn't really show that a
> Stevenson screen is better than a pagoda does it?
>
> --- Tim and Katie <***@picknowl.com.au> wrote:
> > I did not get decent temp readings until I built my
> > own stevenson screen -
> > the difference was quite marked..
> > Have a look at a temp graph displaying the
> > differences
> >
>
http://www.hillsrain.com/Weather_Station/Events/Events08.htm#28-02-03
> > More details including pics of my screen can be seen
> > at
> > http://www.hillsrain.com/Default.htm
> > It is well worth building one and not difficult.
> > Cheers,
> > Tim
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Weather mailing list
> > ***@dalsemi.com
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list
> > archives, go to:
> > http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢
> http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives,
> go to: http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
Ray
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Tim

Could you make available a copy of your spreadsheet that reads and analyses
the Wserver monthly logs? (Your site referred to in the following message.)

Thanks, Ray

-----Original Message-----
From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com] On Behalf
Of Tim and Katie
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 9:02 PM
To: ***@dalsemi.com
Subject: Re: [weather] Re: Pagoda question


More details including pics of my screen can be seen at
http://www.hillsrain.com/Default.htm
It is well worth building one and not difficult.
Cheers,
Tim
Tim and Katie
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Hi Ray,
The excel spreadsheet I use is 8.7mb in size (zipped 2mb). If you contact me
off list ( ***@hillsrain.com ) I will be happy to mail you a copy and some
comments on it.
Cheers,
Tim


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray" <***@computer.org>
To: <***@dalsemi.com>
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 9:52 AM
Subject: [weather] Wserver log analysis


> Tim
>
> Could you make available a copy of your spreadsheet that reads and
analyses
> the Wserver monthly logs? (Your site referred to in the following
message.)
>
> Thanks, Ray
>
Tim and Katie
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Hi all,
My spreadsheet along with some rough instructions (It's getting late over my
way, there is only so much coffee can do!) can be downloaded from -
http://www.hillsrain.com/Downloads/summaries.htm .
Off to bed now as sleep is beckoning....
Cheers,
Tim
www.hillsrain.com
***@hillsrain.com
David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Tim,

I would love to take a look at your screen but I can't find on your site,
just a page in the photo album showing the effects of it. Could you give us
a hint please?

BTW, this weekend I helped my wife set up her new green house and of course
she wanted me to add temperature monitoring to it. I placed a number of
devices there, even one with a little pagoda of sorts and was amazed to see
how all over the map the readings were both in full sun and at night under
a clear sky. I'm still working on getting something useful. Right now they
all read about the same since it is raining but the ones more sensitive to
solar radiation are still climbing a bit above the more neutral ones.

David





"Tim and Katie"
<***@picknow
l.com.au> To
Sent by: <***@dalsemi.com>
weather-***@d cc
alsemi.com
bcc
David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM
04/24/2004 Subject
12:01 AM Re: [weather] Re: Pagoda question


Please respond
to weather






I did not get decent temp readings until I built my own stevenson screen -
the difference was quite marked..
Have a look at a temp graph displaying the differences
http://www.hillsrain.com/Weather_Station/Events/Events08.htm#28-02-03
More details including pics of my screen can be seen at
http://www.hillsrain.com/Default.htm
It is well worth building one and not difficult.
Cheers,
Tim
Tim and Katie
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Hi David and all,
It is early morning now and I will be working late tonight, but as soon as I
get a chance I will make a page with some instructions (the spreadsheet is
still a little raw) and the file for download. There seems to have been a
bit more than one person interested so it will be better for all if it is
available this way!

David I aoplogise, I stuffed up the second link with the pics.. OOPS.
http://www.hillsrain.com is the home page address. The website loads in
frames, but if you want to shortcut directly to the stevenson screen page
it can be seen at
http://www.hillsrain.com/Weather_Station/info/weather_station.htm ( or use
the site search ) bear in mind that this is without the top navigation
frame. Clicking on the "home" link at the bottom of this (and every other)
page will return you the "frames" page. I should never have used frames all
those years ago.. Oh well.

Cheers,
Tim


----- Original Message -----
From: "David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM" <***@us.ibm.com>
To: <***@dalsemi.com>
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: [weather] Re: Pagoda question


>
>
>
>
> Tim,
>
> I would love to take a look at your screen but I can't find on your site,
> just a page in the photo album showing the effects of it. Could you give
us
> a hint please?
>
> BTW, this weekend I helped my wife set up her new green house and of
course
> she wanted me to add temperature monitoring to it. I placed a number of
> devices there, even one with a little pagoda of sorts and was amazed to
see
> how all over the map the readings were both in full sun and at night under
> a clear sky. I'm still working on getting something useful. Right now they
> all read about the same since it is raining but the ones more sensitive to
> solar radiation are still climbing a bit above the more neutral ones.
>
> David
>
>
>
>
>
> "Tim and Katie"
> <***@picknow
> l.com.au> To
> Sent by: <***@dalsemi.com>
> weather-***@d cc
> alsemi.com
> bcc
> David Gibson/Portsmouth/IBM
> 04/24/2004 Subject
> 12:01 AM Re: [weather] Re: Pagoda question
>
>
> Please respond
> to weather
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I did not get decent temp readings until I built my own stevenson screen -
> the difference was quite marked..
> Have a look at a temp graph displaying the differences
> http://www.hillsrain.com/Weather_Station/Events/Events08.htm#28-02-03
> More details including pics of my screen can be seen at
> http://www.hillsrain.com/Default.htm
> It is well worth building one and not difficult.
> Cheers,
> Tim
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Weather mailing list
> ***@dalsemi.com
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, edit your profile, or visit list archives, go to:
> http://lists.dalsemi.com/mailman/listinfo/weather
preitelbach
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Inanimate objects (i.e. temp sensors) do not experience a wind chill effect. Air movement past the (dry) sensor will bring it to ambient temperature faster but will not produce any cooling below that. With the fan at the bottom of the pagoda the air flow should be from the top down. You want virgin air to move past you aspirated temp sensor. With the fan at the bottom and blowing up past the sensor the air column may be minutely heated by the fan motor. Or locate the fan motor at the top and have it pull air up and out.
Pat



-------Original Message-------
> From: Colin Larsen <***@clear.net.nz>
> Subject: Re: [weather] Re: Pagoda question
> Sent: Apr 24 2004 16:04:23
>
> Unless I misread the document it compared the Stevenson to
> other common types of "home built" screens. I thought it
> interesting that the Pagoda seemed to come out quite well.
>
> In fact while I've been following this thread I had an idea
> to combine the designs of a chimney style pagoda and a fan
> ventilated enclosure. To this end I have obtained a solar
> powered pagoda style light . It is made of stainless steel,
> has the solar power unit on the top and has 4 sets of pagoda
> fins. I intended to replace the metail fins (which are too
> short) with a set of bowls or similar and use the solar
> power to run a small fan at the base. This way it is
> ventilated during the day, but not at night. To avoid any
> sort of "wind chill" factor creeping in I am considering
> using a 6 or 12 volt fan at the end of the 3 v solar power
> supply. In this way I'm hoping that the fan will run just
> enough to move the air in the chimney without introducing
> any other errors.
> One of the first things I have found is that stailess steel
> body appears to heat up in the sun. I imagined its relective
> surface would prevent that. So I will probably paint the
> whole thing white to start with.
>
> Well thats the theory anyway. I'll photgraph and document
> the project as I go and publish some results.
>
> Cheers
> Colin.
>
Colin Larsen
1970-01-01 00:00:00 UTC
Permalink
Pat,
Thanks for the tips, I thought something similar so far as pulling the air
from the top down goes. My reasoning was slightly different in that I was
worried about pulling in convecting air off the roof that the pagoda will
sit above (I'm intending it be about 3 metres up a pole). I guess this
could be a problem either way so I may end up painting the section of roof
white in the immediate area around the weather gear (luckily its the garage
roof !).

Thanks - Colin.

_____

From: weather-***@dalsemi.com [mailto:weather-***@dalsemi.com] On Behalf
Of preitelbach
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 5:11 AM
To: ***@dalsemi.com
Subject: Re: Re: [weather] Re: Pagoda question


Inanimate objects (i.e. temp sensors) do not experience a wind chill effect.
Air movement past the (dry) sensor will bring it to ambient temperature
faster but will not produce any cooling below that. With the fan at the
bottom of the pagoda the air flow should be from the top down. You want
virgin air to move past you aspirated temp sensor. With the fan at the
bottom and blowing up past the sensor the air column may be minutely heated
by the fan motor. Or locate the fan motor at the top and have it pull air up
and out.
Pat



-------Original Message-------
> From: Colin Larsen <***@clear.net.nz>
> Subject: Re: [weather] Re: Pagoda question
> Sent: Apr 24 2004 16:04:23
>
> Unless I misread the document it compared the Stevenson to
> other common types of "home built" screens. I thought it
> interesting that the Pagoda seemed to come out quite well.
>
> In fact while I've been following this thread I had an idea
> to combine the designs of a chimney style pagoda and a fan
> ventilated enclosure. To this end I have obtained a solar
> powered pagoda style light . It is made of stainless steel,
> has the solar power unit on the top and has 4 sets of pagoda
> fins. I intended to replace the metail fins (which are too
> short) with a set of bowls or similar and use the solar
> power to run a small fan at the base. This way it is
> ventilated during the day, but not at night. To avoid any
> sort of "wind chill" factor creeping in I am considering
> using a 6 or 12 volt fan at the end of the 3 v solar power
> supply. In this way I'm hoping that the fan will run just
> enough to move the air in the chimney without introducing
> any other errors.
> One of the first things I have found is that stailess steel
> body appears to heat up in the sun. I imagined its relective
> surface would prevent that. So I will probably paint the
> whole thing white to start with.
>
> Well thats the theory anyway. I'll photgraph and document
> the project as I go and publish some results.
>
> Cheers
> Colin.
>
r***@knology.net
2005-04-01 19:01:24 UTC
Permalink
Actually, they were referred to as selsyns or syncros. A three phase
stator winding in each device interconnected to the other one, and a single
phase AC rotor hooked to either 110v 60 cycle power or 400 cycle power.
When you turned the one end, the rotor on the other end turned to match
position. Strictly an analog device, used to this day in shipboard
navigation systems including gyros. Were very highly developed technology,
and included some fascinating techniques to ampligy and repeat signals with
and without vacuum tube amplifiers. They were also used in radar antennas
and scopes to provide a rotating sweep. Lots of mechanical parts involved
as well. Some fire control systems on battleships were filled with them
and a lot of cams to do the computations to aim the guns.

Yep, also an OF

--Rich, KE4GNK

> Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 22:00:19 -0500
> From: "C. Dennis Jones" <***@universaldata.com>
> Subject: RE: [Weather] Crazy wind readings
> To: "'List for 1 Wire Weather Stations and devices'"
> <***@buoy.com>
> Message-ID: <034601c53666$f11d23b0$***@cdj2>
>
> Analog approach. . .let's see, probably a couple of synchronous motors
doing
> the direction. . .or were they really gyros? and for the speed, just a dc
> motor / generator into a ma meter.
>
> Actually, still miss the movement of the meters. Remember the local cable
> channel panning the black and white camera across the weather meters,
local
> temp, wind speed, direction, barometric pressure. . . sadly, no radar!
>
> Guess I'm an old . .
>
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